Sunday, July 22, 2012

Week 17 Atlanta to Nashville Tennessee

Our general travel route for this week... (Note... sort of giving up on Google with trying to make it stay off of the interstate freeways as it will let me do a couple of legs of the journey "highway free" but then it digresses and reverts to it's "but I want to use an interstate" attitude, changes the settings so you can't avoid interstates, etc etc... so this map shows interstate usage but we actually did not use a single mile of interstate getting from Franklin to Atlanta, back to Franklin and on to Nashville Tennessee this week)...



Saturday we finished our march to Atlanta, crossing into Georgia on Highway 175 and into a beautiful lake area leading into the town of Hiawassee. Very pretty area. From there we traveled through northern Georgia to Cartersville about an hours north of Atlanta. We had been warned by many folks that the traffic in Atlanta is terrible and since our sole mission was to see a ball game there, we opted to stay outside the city but close to easy access in. Cartersville is a small town just off the I-75 and Turner Field (where the Braves play) is right beside I-75 so it should be a piece of cake getting to the Sunday afternoon game.

Well, it was pretty much a piece of cake, but wow, as we got closer into Atlanta the traffic was indeed pretty brutal... and this, a Sunday morning! We had pre-purchased parking for the game so the only thing we had to do was to find the entrance to the Green Lot. Again, piece of cake and we ended up being very close in to the park entrance.

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As you enter the general park area there are a number of statues dedicated to past Braves players including... Warren Spahn,


... Ty Cobb (The Georgia Peach),


... and, of course, Hammerin' Hank Aaron...


We had timed our arrival to give us plenty of time to search out our standard souvenirs (Kris is collecting park pins and Brian is collecting sew on arm patches). We found pins right away but the patch was a different issue. None to be found... well, later, after the game we went back into the main store and Kris made the appropriate inquiry. They keep the patches on the rack with the jerseys so if someone wants to buy a patch to put on their jersey, they don't have to look any further. That's a first for us. Normally the patches are on a display by themselves. Oh well, objective achieved, and nice patch too.

The game itself was a bit of a pitcher's duel until the Braves broke it open with six runs in the bottom of the 5th and that's all they would need. The Mets got one back but too few, too late. Final 6-1 Braves.

Our trip record now stands at Home 4 wins; Visitor 2 wins.

We were really surprised at the low turnout. The stands seemed half full at best. Indeed, the announced attendance was just over 23,000 with the stadium seating capacity being listed at over 49,000. We bought club level seats so had an excellent view overlooking 3rd base... and totally in the shade. The temperature was about 38C so a seat in the sun would have been brutal. There were very few folks around us with the exception of a brief period when 4 young ladies sat a couple of rows in front of us and spent the entire time fiddling with their iphones.

Leaving the ball park was a bit of a mini adventure. The main road back out to I-75 northbound was blocked off so we had to find another way (without the benefit of a map). Finally we spotted a sign showing "this way to I-75" so followed that through a couple of, well lets just say, lower end neighbourhoods (car doors firmly locked) but did eventually arrive at an on ramp going north... except it wasn't really going anywhere. Four lanes of cars going nowhere fast. After about 5 or so minutes the traffic started moving again and the bottleneck slowly cleared and once out of the downtown core we started moving at a decent speed again. Sunday afternoon! Can't imagine what it must be like on a busy weekday.

The headlines on the local paper yesterday was all about a vote being held to ok a one cent tax on everything across the board in the state of Georgia. The 16 Billion dollars expected to be raised over the next 10 years is to be earmarked specifically for traffic remediation. The big question in the paper was "What is Plan B?" (if the voters reject the proposal). The traffic through this area is simply unworkable!

Anyway, in and out of Atlanta and back to the KOA for a dip in the pool... BUT... not so fast.... it is sprinkling, as in a few rain drops! Pool closed! You can count the rain drops as they hit the pool, there are that few of them! Buddy, says "nope, can't open the pool, maybe later". After waiting a half hour or so and not noticing any rain drops at all, we go back and ask "how long do you have to wait between "sprinkes" before you can open the pool?"... Buddy decides he can open it now. Frustrating but better later than never in this heat.

After a brief swim with nary a sprinkle of rain, we headed into Cartersville to find some dinner. We drove around the main historic area and settled on the City Cellar a lower level tavern type of place. Kris tried the "house special" a Shrimp with Grits dish which was tasty but HUGE, while Brian had a pretty good burger. All in all, a decent dinner and the waiter (who might have been the owner or manager) was a very pleasant fellow. Nice chat.

Monday we took a leisurely drive north through the Georgian countryside to Chattanooga Tennessee. Here we stayed at the "Best Holiday Trav-L Park" where they have a sign on their pool... "No swimming in a heavy downpour"... hmmm wonder if a sprinkle here and there constitutes a heavy downpour in these parts (as it apparently did yesterday in Cartersville)?

Our main goal for Chattanooga was to see the large model train (HO scale) at the "Choo Choo" but since we had arrived fairly early in the day we decided to drive around downtown, get a bite to eat and see if there was enough interest to stay a second night. Didn't get much of a vibe about the city (and it was about 9000 degrees out, I think the surface of the sun was cooler) and to top it off lunch sucked so we decided one night here was enough. The huge HO Scale model train layout at the Model Railroad Museum was cool though especially the part where they added roads containing cars pulling wee trailers...



Tuesday our travels took us into 3 states as we left Tennessee, into Georgia, back into Tennessee and finally into North Carolina, for the third time this trip. We stopped along the way in a very small town (turns out it was Benton, TN) for a nice lunch at "Kathy's Cownty Kitchen" (with a lot of ceramic cows)...



...on our return to Franklin, North Carolina for the night before heading into the Great Smokey Mountains and back into Tennessee. The Great Outdoors RV Resort just north of Franklin is very nice. Pool, individual washrooms (shower, toilet, sink) and a beautiful view up into the Smokies.

Wednesday we headed north towards the entrance to the Great Smokey Mountain National Park drive through to Gatlinburg, Tennessee. The drive through the mountains is very cool with lots of scenic opportunities and an excellent visitor center. There are numerous hiking opportunities here. It only takes a couple of hours to drive through to Gatlinburg. Arriving in Gatlinburg we discovered that several folks, with whom we discussed travel, were right when they told us that Gatlinburg is way over the top tourist wise. This place is block after block of tourist trap/crap. Not our style, so one night here will do it. We did however stop in at the Arrowmont School of Arts and Crafts where they had a fabulous Instructor Exhibit on display open to the public and a great supplies store. We could easily have come away with more than an armload of books and other craft supply items but held back to leave with a great pair of earrings for Kris. We did collect info on some of their craft workshops for future reference though.

Thursday we hit some secondary highways westward towards Nashville and stopped in Crossville at the Deer Run RV Resort for the night. This place is about 10 miles out of town up in the hills. Beautiful area with a great pool. While at the pool we chatted with some folks who pay an annual fee for their RV spot and they told us that many people there either own their own space or lease them as a summer cabin type place. We can see why. Great place to have this type of summer get away. A lake, huge play area for kids, etc etc... the only drawback was the plethora of wasps constantly around. One of the fellows we chatted with at the pool works at the park and earlier in the day was mowing a grassy area when he inadvertently mowed over an inground wasp nest pissing them off! He said he only got 6 to 8 stings; lucky for him he is not allergic and laughed it off (other than, as he said "they got me a couple of good ones on the top of my head").

After the swim we headed out and found the Big Boys BBQ just north of the town. A very pleasant find as we had a good sized meal of ribs and brisket along with the traditional potato salad and coleslaw.

Friday we continued our trek towards Nashville Tennessee. We opted to continue following US 70 which pretty well parallels I-40 but goes through a number of cool little towns. At one point we invoked the Daniel Boone saying from last week ... we were just a bit bewildered not lost... but eventually came back across US 70 and continued on our way as if nothing had happened!

We stopped for gas in the small town of Smithville. While Brian filled the tank Kris was looking though a brochure and asked "Where are we?". When told we were in Smithville, she said "Sweet, there is a place I wouldn't mind going to"... so after getting directions from the gas station attendant we headed off to the Appalachian Center for Craft which is a satellite campus for Tennessee Tech. AND WHAT A PLACE! It took us a while to find the Center but we then had an excellent lunch in their cafeteria followed by at least an hour wandering through their art galleries. What an inspiring place! We came within a hair's breadth of changing the rest of our travel plans for this trip. Their summer three week intensive workshop sessions start three days from now and include numerous courses we both are interested in including metal enameling, fibre crafts, clay crafts and woodworking. We seriously considered enrolling but decided to stick to our original plan and continue on... BUT... we will watch their schedule and possibly decide on a 3 week trip specifically to take a couple of these fabulous looking workshops. (you can easily reach Smithville in one day with flights out of Vancouver to Nashville... we checked already!).

Totally inspired, we continued our day and arrived at the Nashville KOA in time for a late afternoon dip in the pool (waaay to warm; could use a truckload of icecubes dumped in it) before heading off in search of dinner. We bought a couple of great looking pork chops (under $4) and proceeded to grill them up along with some salad fixin's. Just in time as we no sooner finished eating than the skies opened up with some serious rain. We managed to get everying put away (at least that which needed to be) and headed inside to watch some TV. At one point the noise of the rain on the roof of the wee trailer was so loud that we could not hear our TV even at full volume .... so ended this week.

Back to Week 16 On to Week 18

Monday, July 16, 2012

Week 16 Shenendoah Valley to Atlanta Georgia

Our general travel route for this week...


After having driven the Skyline Drive (35 mph for 105 miles) on Friday we decided to continue onto the Blue Ridge Parkway but not to dedicate ourselves to it. Saturday we found the entrance to the parkway...


... and drove about 40 miles before turning east on highway 60 over towards Appomattox, the site of Confederate General Robert E. Lee's surrender to Union General Ulysses S. Grant, thus bringing the Civil War to an end (there were skirmishes for the next few months but for all intents and purposes the war was over).

It was another brutally hot day (40 C) when we visited the Appomattox National Park where the Appomattox County Court House complex is essentially the same as it was back in the day. Due to the high heat index, all ranger guided tours were cancelled so we basically had to settle on the museum in the court house. Lots of other tourists were of the same mind so it was a bit crowded, but still quite interesting. Just off from the courthouse complex is a small cemetery where 13 (12 confederate, one union) unknown soldiers, from the last skirmish before the surrender, are buried.

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Leaving the museum we drove into historic downtown (every small and large town/city in these parts has an historic downtown!) Appomattox for lunch. After lunch, it was too darn hot to wander the streets, although they looked quite interesting so maybe another time, so we headed west towards Natural Bridge, our stop for the night.

From our previous couple of days experience on the Skyline and Parkway, we decided to drift on and off the parkway as we made our way south. The Parkway is a pretty drive but you have to leave it for restaurants and other experiences in small towns. We started Sunday back on the Parkway to stop at one of the visitor centers. We planned to be on the Parkway for only about 20 miles or so. At the visitor center we chatted with the couple looking after the place and exchanged travel tales (they have a trip planned for Iceland, Greenland and Scandinavia later this year). She asked us where we were headed for the day. We told her that we thought the Parkway was pretty but we missed going through the small towns so were planning to leave the Parkway and go south on Highway 221. She looked at her watch and said that we would probably arrive in the small town of Floyd sometime around lunch time and that is a good place to stop for a rest. She told us about the old country store where you can get a bite to eat and there might even be some musicians sitting around jamming. So why not?

Leaving the Parkway we meandered through the country to Floyd, found a place to park with the wee trailer, wandered around a bit looking in a few art galleries and checking out cafe menus before going into the old country store... what a great find... not only did we have an excellent low cost lunch but there was a group of folks playing old time music on guitars, banjos, fiddles etc etc. We sat and listened for about an hour. Meanwhile we learned that Floyd is one of the key spots on the Crooked Road - Virginia's Heritage Music Trail.

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We took a couple of 30 second movie clips with our new Canon camera but they came out well over 100MB so we didn't try to upload them to our Picasa gallery (yet).

Later, after lunch we chatted with a woman in an art gallery and found that this area is home to whacks of artisans and musicians (mostly old time and blue grass). We finished up our brief stay in Floyd with the purchase of a couple of beautiful locally made baskets. Just down the road and near another Parkway entrance we stopped at Fancy Gap KOA for the night.

Monday, we started out on the Parkway and immediately stopped in at the Blue Ridge Music Center where we had another great surprise... another free music performance so we looked through the fabulous "Roots of American Music" museum waiting for the group to set up. We watched the Buck Mountain Band for about an hour...



Before leaving the center we learned that Director of the Center was from Victoria BC so we asked after her and the staff member at the desk called her up. She came out and we chatted a bit about how she came to have the unique skill set for this wonderful position. Very cool.

Leaving the Music Center we also left the Parkway for the small town of Galax which the wikipedia entry says "claims to be the bluegrass capital of the world". Galax is a small town of about 7,000 and hosts the annual Old Time Fiddlers Convention ...



...which brings in over 50,000 people from far and wide. We stopped in at the Galax Smokehouse BBQ for one of the better "que" lunches we have had this side of Texas, then wandered around the downtown for a bit before continuing on to Boone North Carolina our stop at the KOA there for the night. A new item of bbq that we tried was smoked potatoes. oh my my ...holy mother of carbohydrates. If you have a smoker, throw in some potatoes and make mashed or even potato salad (with chipotle aoli, even better) and you will not be sad.

Yes, Boone is named after the famous frontiersman Daniel Boone. Sometimes, on our travels, we think we might need to adopt a quote attributed to him...

"I can't say that I was ever lost, but I was bewildered once for three days!"

Boone is the home of the Appalachian State University so there are a lot of young folks around, hence lots of cool cafes etc. We had a great pizza dinner at the Mellow Mushroom. Wandering around downtown Boone we came across a scupture of the recently deceased great Doc Watson posed playing his guitar while sitting on a bench. Nice...



Tuesday we headed back up onto the Parkway for about another 30 miles. It was totally foggy over the valleys so there was no point stopping at any of the overlooks. A few miles up onto the Parkway we stopped at the Parkway Craft Center, a beautiful location in an old manor house and primarily an outlet for various crafts folk to display and market their wares. They have different artisans doing demonstrations of their crafts every day. On this day a women was making dolls from corn husks. We didn't stick around too long as it started to rain fairly heavily.

Leaving the Parkway we drove through a few small towns before Kris spotted a sign to the Penland School of Crafts which was well worth the 15-20 minute drive up a narrow mountain road. They had numerous beautiful craft works on display in their gallery. This would be such a cool place to come and take a two week or so workshop (although a tad expensive). Sam Maloof was one of their woodworking instructors; what an experience it would have been, taking a course from him. After browsing the gallery and admiring the fabulous art work, we continued on to Asheville North Carolina for the night.

Have you ever gone to a supermarket wondering what you might have for dinner? That evening, While in a supermarket wondering exactly that, we wandered some aisles and came across...


...no, I don't think so! (Come to think of it, maybe this is a close cousin of hotdog fillings, so perhaps we should be a bit more forgiving of this southern specialty) We settled on a rotisserie chicken and some salad..

Asheville reminded us so much of Portland Oregon (population wise, Portland is about 5 times larger). Lots of cultural events, young folks on the streets, galleries, boutiques etc. One guy told us that Asheville challenges Portland as the micro brewery capital of America. We decided to spend another day to explore the city. We set out in the morning, stopped for a Starbucks where we chatted for about half an hour with a local fellow and learned some trivia about the city and the area. After coffee we drove north on the Blue Ridge Parkway for about 10 miles to the Folk Art Center where they had many wonderful arts and crafts on display and for sale. We came away with a lonely t-shirt. For lunch we ventured down to the River Art District where we found the 12 Bones Smokehouse, a bbq place recommended by the guy back at Starbucks. Well, was he ever right on! This place jumps ahead of the Galax Smokehouse in terms of favs! We had a great lunch of smoked turkey, ribs, corn pudding and most surprising of all, some terrific smoked potato salad... who knew?



While eating lunch in the covered outdoor seating area it began to rain really heavily. So we had to forego wandering around the district. Driving around in the rain became very unpleasant as Asheville is quite hilly and some of the roads turned into small rivers. We ended up taking the interstate back towards the campground. Even in a blinding rainstorm the truckers were tailgating on the interstate; 70 MPH plus with not much more than one car length between them and the vehicle in front. You begin to understand why we avoid the interstates. Anyway, watching the local news that night, we learned that it rained 3.75 inches in just over one hour in the city that afternoon.

A bit bummed out that we didn't have a chance to see as much of Asheville as we had hoped we decided to stick it out for another day despite a forecast for more rain. So Thursday when we awoke to just a light shower we donned our anoraks and headed out for the day. Luckily the rain stayed away most of the day so we had a chance to wander around downtown, sit on a pig...



...walk up Chicken Alley with it's fabulous mural...


...and go back down to the River Art District where numerous artists have open studios for the public to wander around in and chat with them. While in the art district, we decided that we might as well do a repeat on the 12 Bones experience. We arrived there around 1:00pm to find a lineup out the door and around the corner of the building. Not to worry, it only took about 20 minutes of so to get to the front of the line. This time, pulled pork, more ribs, more smoked potato salad...

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... and every bit as good as yesterday.

Friday we continued our march to Atlanta as we have tickets to see the Braves host the Mets on Sunday. We split the journey into two days and stopped in Franklin North Carolina for the night. Cool little downtown area. We decided to grill up our own dinner this night so picked up some pork and fired up the griller. The campsite in Franklin looks out into the Smokey Mountains. The fog and clouds in the mountains lets you know why they are called the "smokies".

One of the interesting things we saw as we travelled through this part of North Carolina is the large number of Christmas tree farms...




Back to Week 15 On to Week 17

Wednesday, July 11, 2012

Week 15 Williamsburg to Shenendoah Valley Virginia

Our general travel route for this week...


Saturday we had to pack up and move to another campground as the first one we stayed at was fully booked over the weekend. After moving to the Williamsburg KOA, we spent another day taking in Colonial Williamsburg, some of the shops there and the main museum again. It's all pretty cool.

We had done some research, regarding celebrating Canada Day in the USA, and found a backyard BBQ in Yorktown about a half hour south of Williamsburg. Unfortunately the person hosting this BBQ came down with a bad cold and had to cancel. Too bad...:-(

We decided to drive down to Yorktown anyway as we were getting a bit "colonialed out" and had heard about the cool river walk and historical main street with restaurants and little shops. Sounded nice. Well, it would likely have been much nicer if the temperature wasn't hovering in the low 100s. However to be truthful, there is really bugger all there. The riverwalk had a couple of cafes but no shops to speak of (one small, but nice, custom rug hooking shop). The historical main street is just that. A couple of little old houses with a couple of shops selling tacky tourist stuff. Not much to see.

The saving grace, for us, was the National Park Battlefield visitors center. Aaaah air conditioning! Great displays etc and excellent short movie about the role Yorktown played in the American Revolution. The park rangers usually give a 45 or so minute walking tour of the battlefield but on this day, being as it was so stinking hot, they were doing a 5 to 10 minute quickie. We declined.

While in Williamsburg, the severe thunderstorms that hit the entire area hit us as well. Late in the evening one night we laid on the bed in the trailer, opened the curtain and watched the massive lightening show as the entire sky was constantly lit up. The KOA in Williamsburg is ok but their layout leaves a lot to be desired. We were located near a bath house and were constantly having people walk through the middle of our site. Very annoying and when we asked them not to walk through occupied sites, they gave us this stupid look, said sorry and proceded to walk through other sites. At least they then avoided ours, but it was a constant stream.

On Monday we set out from Williamsburg with the intention of staying near Charlottesville where Thomas Jefferson's Monticello is. On the way, we stopped and phoned one of the local campgrounds. They said they had room but they didn't have any power and neither did other campgrounds, or anyone else in the area. They have been without power since the storm on Friday. In this heat we need some power to at least have the fan on so we decided to keep going west up into the Shenendoah Valley where it turned out to be a bit, but not much, cooler.

We stayed Monday night in Harrisonburg and had hoped to get the car serviced the next day but the Nissan place there was booked up until Friday. We had a good look around the historic area of Harrisonburg, had a fabulous dinner in a restored old building downtown and decided to head farther north to Winchester at the north end of the valley rather than wait around until Friday. Tuesday morning we drove back into Harrisonburg to see the Virginia Quilt Museum where they had numerous fabulous old quilts on display. On the way back to the car we stopped in at the local Harrisonburg Farmers Market where we chatted with an organizer and compared this market with the Comox Valley Farmers Market where we now live. They're all terrific!


After that off we went north up highway 11 which doodles along parallel to the interstate through numerous small towns. Very pretty drive but slow... it took a couple of hours to go the 60 miles from Harrisonburg to Winchester then add a couple more hours for rest and lunch stops. But, we were able to make an appointment to get the car serviced on Thursday (some places being closed on Wednesday July 4th).

When we checked into the Candy Hill campground we asked for two nights with a hold on the third night while we looked into getting the car serviced. They said ok and had us taken to our site. About an hour later I went back to the office to confirm the 3rd night as we knew we could get the car done; at that point I got another stupid look... "...but, there's a problem, your site is booked for Thursday!" What? Good grief, an hour ago all was well with a hold on the third night! Anyway, we ended up moving that afternoon rather than waiting until Thursday.

Once all settled (again), we headed off in search of groceries and other goods. Guess what... we forgot to close the windows and the ceiling fan in the wee trailer. We were way across town when in a matter of minutes a terrific wind and pouring rain storm hit. By the time we got back to the trailer there was water running in through the roof fan, the TV which had been sitting on the foot of the bed was dripping wet, our duvet was wet, ie when we gave it a bit of a shake, water ran out the bottom.. etc etc etc.. We put the duvet in a dryer and that was ok but the TV???

Wednesday we decided to head over into West Virginia to Harpers Ferry. A nice short 40 minute drive into West Virginia (add another state to the trip footprint). The main focus on Harpers Ferry, for tourism purposes, is definitely the John Brown raid of 1859 which is highlighted in the excellent little John Brown Museum, although other aspects of the historical significance of the town's location and the impact of the civil war are also on display.


Later that evening we decided to try out the TV... all worked ok so it looks like no damage done there. Thursday I took the car in for service (Oil change, tire rotation, general checkup) and all is good so far. Remember the busted taillight from last week... well I asked this Nissan service rep about it. She came back some minutes later and said that the Nissan rep in Williamsburg is correct in that it is a "Canadian part", however she took the extra step of calling Nissan Canada only to find out that the Canadian part number is exactly the same as the USA part number. She said they could have the taillight ordered and it would likely be in on Friday. We decided to just leave well enough alone for now, for a couple of reasons: 1) the part doesn't arrive Friday and we have to stick around here until Monday and 2) they might try to install the part and find other body damage that prevents the install. We'll have it looked at when we get home where we can get all the damage assessed at once for insurance purposes. Besides, the tape job has survived at least 3 horrific rain storms so it should be good for the rest of the trip... and we know where to get more spiffy clear duct tape!

After the car was serviced, we drove down into historic downtown Winchester. They have a lovely 3 block pedestrian walk with restaurants, sidewalk cafes, boutique shops. Nice... this is sort of what we had hoped Yorktown would have been like. We had an excellent lunch consisting of really good cold cucumber soup and a salad. After lunch we wandered around and ventured over to the George Washington Office Museum where we got to see a lock of George's hair. Our lives must be getting close to being complete. We have seen a lock of Mohammed's beard hair (in India) and now George Washington's curly locks. The office (museum) is where Washington, as a 17 year old did his work as a surveyor for the county.

Later in the afternoon we drove around the historic area and saw some of the damage from the storm last week. Lots of large and small branches down all over the place and some trees as well. For example the yard of this beautiful old house...


... where the old tree busted apart in the wind and took out several sections of their beautiful cast iron fence. You can see the tree was somewhat rotted out on the inside of it's trunk. They should just take the whole thing down now. Made us think that we are glad we had all those old Walnut trees removed in our yard before we left on this trip. Back at the campground, we called a couple of places south on the Blue Ridge Parkway to see if we could get reservations for Friday and Saturday night. One of them was the place, near Charlottesville, we tried on Monday. They are still without power. Apparently lots of places throughout DC, Virginia and West Virginia (and possibly beyond) are still without power. We were able to make reservations at a couple of other places for those two nights.

Friday we set off to drive the Skyline Drive which is a 105 mile zig zag (max 35 mph) highway along the top of the Shenendoah Mountains through the Shenendoah National Park and leads into the northern end, at mile 0, of the Blue Ridge Parkway. The drive has some nice scenic overlooks giving great panoramic views of the Shenendoah Valley. Very pretty...


The views are very scenic but the elevation reached is not all that high (max was around 2900'). We see this as "soft scenery", nothing so far to compare with more "rugged scenery" out west.

Meanwhile the record breaking hot spell has continued to settle in over the whole area. The temperatures have consistently been in the 38 C (102 F) range with a couple of days hitting 42 C (that's about 108 F) not counting the humidex factor. Luckily we are doing most of our driving in the heat of the day (air conditioned car), all places we stay have pools and it generally cools down considerably at night (although some nights it has been more than a tad warm). The thing that gets us though is the humidity; something we'll get used to in Courtenay. We decided that after this last couple of weeks, it will be difficult for the weather in Courtenay to get "too hot"!

Back to Week 14 On to Week 16

Thursday, July 5, 2012

Week 14 Washington DC to Williamsburg Virginia

Our general travel route for this week...


Saturday was our planned last day in Washington so we decided to ride the metro back down to the mall, wander around a bit and then take in the 20th Annual Safeway National Championship BBQ event. We arrived early enough to sit and enjoy a Starbucks on their outdoor patio. After coffee we wandered around some side streets north of Pennsylvania Ave. Sometimes it is amazing what you find or see getting off the main path. We forgot to mention in last week's happenings that we did the same thing up near the Renwick Gallery and came across the World Bank building. Who knew they have such a terrific bookstore and gift shop. We could have easily filled the wee trailer with books from that place! Anyway on this day we were about 2 blocks off Pennsylvania when we came across an old building with a plague on the front detailing the house as being where Clara Barton lived and worked. Clara Barton was, amongst other things, responsible for setting up the missing soldiers registry during and after the Civil War and for establishing the Red Cross in America. Over one hundred years after the Civil War ended someone looked in the attic of this building and discovered a treasure trove of information about Clara including hundreds of pairs of socks she was preparing for the troops (socks were a big deal as the Civil War soldiers did a phenomenal amount of walking) along with thousands of letters sent out regarding missing soldiers. Very, very interesting...


We also discovered the Hill Country restaurant, a Texas BBQ joint in the heart of Washington DC!... so authentic they even fly in their sausages from Kreutz' Market in Lockhart Tx. We decided we might return there later for lunch.

It was now time to join the long line of people going into the BBQ event, They fence off 6 blocks along Pennsylvania Ave and several side streets for this thing... over 10,000 people attend and lots of competitors...


Lots of displays, games and food stalls. We chatted with a number of the competitors. Saturday was chicken judging day and Sunday was pork ribs and brisket so most of these folks have been hard at it already and will be up most of the night into Sunday as the meat will be on the BBQ most of the night. We have pictures of the stalls for numerous competitors on our Picasa album but here's a couple of the more colorful ones...



Probably the most interesting thing for us was chatting with competitors who use the Big Green Egg as their cooker of choice. We already had plans to get one of these when we get home and chatting with these folks confirmed our plans. We also found out about electronic heat controls that will maintain a perfect brisket temperature for over 12 hours without having to add any additional fuel to the fire. Definitely have to get one of these puppies.

Since most of the food stalls were small samples, a bit costly ($4 for 2 rib bones) and very messy, not to mention that it was getting stinking hot out, we decided to head up to the Hill Country BBQ place a few blocks away. This place truly is the real deal for Texas BBQ. We had an excellent lunch of sausage and brisket with the usual sides.

It was still a bit early so after lunch we jumped on the metro and went south to the Pentagon City shopping mall. Partly for the air conditioning but also to pick up a few things we needed. While at the mall, I (Brian) asked a concierge guy if there was a Bank of America nearby... "...yes, of course, walk up one block and then go 2 blocks to the left..." Great! BUT what he really meant to say was "...one block up and then 2 of the longest freaking blocks you will ever walk..." Did I mention that it was stinking hot out?

To top off the heat, we just missed the bus to the campground when we got off the metro and had to wait 45 minutes for the next one. This campground is very handy but if we return we will seriously think about driving to the metro on Saturdays and Sundays when parking is free and the buses run only once an hour!!!

Sunday was our drive up to Baltimore to see the Orioles host the Nationals at Camden Yards. Beautiful ball park...


This was our second Nationals game in a week. They might begin to hate us as they came up on the losing end again. This time a 2-1 setback. They were up 1-0 into the bottom of the eighth inning and feeling good; brought in their closer and then this swing happened...


... sending the ball into the left center field stands for a 2 run "jack" (home run) to give the Orioles the lead which they would not relinquish. Needless to say the home fans were a tad ecstatic.

Our trip record is now: Home team 3, Visiting Team 2.

Monday we left Washington to head south into Virginia and the heart of the Civil War. Our first stop was the Manassas National Battlefield Park. We thought there were actually 2 major battle fields near here (Manassas and Bull Run) but found out they were the same thing. The Confederates named battle fields after nearby towns, the Union named them after nearby rivers. We asked the ranger why, if the Union won the war, was this park given the Confederate name. He explained that the National Park Service decided to name each park based on who won the battle at that place. Here the Confederates won decisively.

Anyway, this is a fabulous park. The farmlands and surrounding forests are basically the same as they were back in the day so you get a real feel (well other than flying bullets and dying soldiers) for what it might have been like. We watched an excellent demo by a guy dressed in period gear. He showed how soldiers were taught to load, aim and fire their muskets in a very disciplined manner. He explained how the battle line strategies worked with a line of soldiers all loading and firing at the same time...


After the park, we headed into downtown Manassas where we wandered around the historic district a bit before having a very nice lunch. Then it was on to Fredericksburg our stop for a few days where we booked into the KOA south of town. It was pretty hot out so decided to have a relaxing pool session before heading back into town for groceries.

Leaving the campground we took a wrong turn and ended up down a narrow country road. Spotting a turn off into a farmer's field we decided to turn around as there was sufficient room to back in almost to the fence and pull back out the way we had come. While slowly backing in, all of a sudden the car jolted backwards with a loud bang followed by a crashing sound. WHAT THE??? Well, it looked like the ditch culvert collapsed and the rear driver's side wheel fell into the hole causing the car to jolt backwards into the fence post. Thank goodness for 4-wheel drive as we were able to extricate the car. No damage to the fence but the car suffered a busted taillight, a dent in the hatchback door and numerous dents and scratches in the bumper.

The next day we took the car into the local Nissan dealer. They could not replace the taillight because our car was bought in Canada. They said the part needed is not available in the USA. Well the lights still worked so he recommended a patch job with clear waterproof tape and since the dents were not impeding the hatchback door decided to leave it all until we get home. We had them put the car up on the hoist and make sure there was no other structural damage as we are pulling the wee trailer. They reported none.

There are 4 major battle fields in and around Fredericksburg. The area is known as the bloodiest place in the USA. Over 100,000 casualties in those 4 battles. In Fredericksburg, when the city was held by the Confederates, the Union army attempted to build pontoon bridges across the Rappahannock river into the town. The Union sent engineers to construct the bridges with no cover. Confederate sharpshooters sat in building windows and picked off the engineers one by one. Kris commented to one ranger that even the ancient Romans would have built some sort of moving shield for the engineers to work behind. The ranger's response was that what the Confederate shooters did, hiding in the buildings, was not considered normal warfare at the time. The result was that the Union finally figured out this strategy was going nowhere fast, pulled back the engineers, brought up artillery on the hillside and proceeded to obliterate the town. Every building was hit and the Confederates withdrew to their position on the hill overlooking the town. The Union army built the bridges then went on a rampage and destroyed what was left of the town. Then they marched on the Confederate hill position. It was amazing to see where the Union army marched line after line of young men up an open field about a quarter of a mile into unrelenting fire. One Confederate commander was heard to yell something like "... fire directly into the line, if lucky, you will get two with one bullet...". At one point, something like 8,000 men killed in just over an hour. Brutal!

Over the next couple of days we visited the Chancellorville and Wilderness battlefields. At Fredericksburg and these two battlefields we took the ranger led talks and tours. Well worth the time and very interesting.

It was at Chancellorville that Stonewall Jackson, the great Confederate General was mistakenly taken to be a Union soldier and shot by his own men. Thus began a tragic end to his life. He was hit twice in the left arm and once in the right hand, his horse bolted through the trees and he was badly cut across the face on a tree branch. When his soldiers managed to recover him and get him off his horse and onto a stretcher, they twice dropped him causing further agony. Out of immediate harms way the doctor amputated his left arm (literally, hacked off with a saw). They then determined that he needed the best help possible which was in Richmond, reachable faster by train from the Guinea Station, some 27 miles away. They loaded him onto a wagon (his "ambulance") and off they went. By the time they got to the station, they found that the Union army had ripped up some of the rail line to Richmond and they had to wait. Jackson ended up with pneumonia which was virtually untreatable at that time and ultimately did him in days later.

Remember that narrow road where we had the car incident. Well, it turns out that road is now known as the Stonewall Jackson Ambulance Route. If you took up the pavement, the road/route would be pretty much the same as it was 150 years ago; a wagon trail. There is now an annual run, the "20 mile Stonewall Jackson Ambulance Route Marathon" that follows the same route.

When we packed up and left Fredericksburg we decided to follow the ambulance route down to where there is now a shrine to Jackson near where the Guinea train station was. There is a memorial and a house from the original plantation. This is where Jackson was treated and eventually died. They actually have the bed where he died and the quilt that covered him. The ranger there told us the story and showed us around. Excellent. Regardless of what one might think of the war, he was regarded as a military genius and the shrine is very quite moving. Some Union officers were said to be happy that their "enemy" was gone but sad that such a great military man was lost. After his death it was pretty well all downhill for the Confederates. General Lee did not win another major battle.


Thursday we headed further south on rural roads through the small Virginia communities of Bowling Green and West Point into Colonial Williamsburg, a much earlier era in America's history. Step back another 100 years.

Colonial Williamsburg is pretty neat. They have maintained the core of the city as a large "Colonial" town filled with original buildings, museums, working craft locales such as foundry, cabinetry, silversmithing, weaving, carpenter along with period re-enactments such as a working plantation, military encampment and several taverns. We took a docent guided tour of an historic furniture exhibit in one of the museums and also watched craftsmen/craftswomen in period attire doing demonstrations of life as what it would have been like in the colonial period. It is a tad expensive ($90 for a 3 day pass for the two of us) but well worth it. You can wander around the Colonial Williamsburg grounds for free but need a pass to get into any of the period demo locales, and really, that's the interesting part...



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