Wednesday, February 28, 2024

2024 Vietnam and Cambodia


All photos for this trip can be found in our
2024 Vietnam and Cambodia Photo Album
Some are also shown in our weekly blogs.


During the early fall of 2023 we decided we wanted to do "something different" for a trip. So we cancelled plans for a return to Oaxaca Mexico and started planning a trip to Vietnam and Cambodia. We decided a good way to get introduced to "life in Vietnam" was to go on a foodie tour. We found a 12 day Intrepid Group tour that sounded right up our alley so signed up for it. Then started planning around that.

We came up with this basic itinerary:
  1. Drive and ferry to Vancouver. fly Air Canada Vancouver - Seoul then Asiana to Hanoi.
  2. A couple of days in Hanoi to get over jet lag etc.
  3. A 12 day food tour travelling from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City.
  4. After a couple of extra days in Ho Chi Minh City fly to Siem Reap, Cambodia to visit the Angkor Wat complex.
  5. Return to Vietnam for about 2 weeks on our own with no specific plans at the outset. Decide as we go.
  6. Fly Bamboo Airlines Hanoi - Tokyo then Air Canada - Vancouver
  7. A couple of days with our friend Marian in Vancouver then drive and ferry home to Courtenay.
Everything went pretty well according to plan. While on the food tour in Hoi An, central Vietnam, we decided to return to Hoi An for 6 days after leaving Cambodia. We also planned a luxury 3 day 2 night excursion out of Hanoi at the end of our trip so we booked two nights in Hanoi then the 2 night excursion followed by 2 more nights in Hanoi.

Meanwhile our flights home changed when Bamboo Airlines essentially went out of business. Air Canada rescheduled us to fly Hanoi - Bangkok then Bangkok - Vancouver. This rescheduling gave us an extra day in Hanoi as our original 1:00 AM flight out of Hanoi changed to 8:30 PM the same day. We just had to leave our stuff at the hotel while we did some last minute sightseeing until around 4:00 PM for our arranged ride to the airport.

Our food tour was organized by Intrepid Tours. It turned out that there were only seven others signed up so along with our guide we were a relatively small group of eight. Details of the food tour are included in our weekly posts.

While staying in Hoi An with our food tour group we decided to return to Hoi An after we leave Cambodia so made arrangements to stay at the same hotel and booked the appropriate flights. From Hoi An we returned to Hanoi to finish the trip.

Here's our weekly posts...

Week 1: Courtenay to Hanoi, Vietnam
Week 2: Hanoi to Hoi An, Vietnam
Week 3: Hoi An to Siem Reap, Cambodia
Week 4: Siem Reap to Hoi An, Vietnam
Week 5: Hoi An to Hanoi, Vietnam
Week 6: Hanoi to Courtenay


Week 6: Hanoi to Courtenay


All photos for this trip can be found in our
2024 Vietnam and Cambodia Photo Album
Look for the "Week 6" tag for photos added this week.


Monday morning we had another excellent breakfast on the ship as it headed back to the dock at Ha Long Bay. Then we were on our way back to Hanoi. Arriving early afternoon we got checked back into our hotel, picked up our luggage and laundry (thanks very much). It was still early enough to do some more wandering around the streets of the Old Quarter.

Tuesday, our last full day in Hanoi, the main thing was to get tickets for the famous water puppet theatre. We were able to get tickets to a mid-afternoon show. It was excellent!
For our last dinner we decided to return to Bun Cha Huong Lien, the place we went to for our first dinner with our foodie tour group. Really good!
Wednesday, after breakfast and coffee, we decided to walk along Hoan Kiem Lake into the center of the Old Quarter. We came across the Nam Huong Communal House, so went in to explore. The art work is just spectacular!
Afterwards we walked into the center, had some lunch then it was time to head back to the hotel and get ready to head to the airport. We arrived in lots of time to avoid any big lineups. Two hour flight to Bangkok; a ten hour layover in the Bangkok international airport; then the long 13.5 hour flight to Vancouver. Cleared customs, got our luggage and we were basically home. A couple of days in Vancouver with our friend Marian then home in time for the Super Bowl and a Chiefs win :-)

That's it for this week and this trip.


Back to Week 5

Week 5: Hoi An to Hanoi, Vietnam


All photos for this trip can be found in our
2024 Vietnam and Cambodia Photo Album
Look for the "Week 5" tag for photos added this week.


For Monday we had arranged a day trip out to the My Son Sanctuary a religious (Hinduism) and political capital of the Champa Kingdom from the 4th to 13th century. After being abandoned the area sat hidden in the jungle for 500 years before a group of French tiger hunters stumbled across it. Now a Unesco World Heritage site, the area was the scene of intense fighting and bombing during the "American War", evident from the numerous marked bomb craters around the site.
On the way back to Hoi An our tour included a stop for a very good Banh Mi sandwich to be eaten on a sunset boat trip down the Thu Bon river to Old Town Hoi An.
For dinner we walked around the corner from our hotel to the Tin Tin restaurant. Ok but just.

Tuesday, after Starbucks, we wandered around Old Town for a bit picking up a few more souvenirs etc. Then after some pool time at the hotel we took a GRAB to Old Town to go back to the Morning Glory for dinner, but mostly to sign up for one of their cooking classes on Wednesday.

Wednesday we took a GRAB to VY's Marketplace for our cooking class. A small group of six in our class but there were several other classes going on at the same time. This is quite the complex they've got going here. She is quite the business woman!
In the evening we went back down along the river for one last Hoi An experience. Lots of tourists. Lots of tourists wanting boat rides on the river and to set lit candles afloat in the river. Lots of food vendors but we opted for a bite to eat at the Shamrock Irish Pub on the busy street along the river.
Thursday it was pack up morning and say goodbye to Hoi An. We really liked staying here and, given the chance, would return. We had an early afternoon flight to Hanoi, were greeted by our pre-arranged driver and off to the Marvellous Hotel & Spa in Hanoi's Old Quarter. For dinner we skipped next door to MAAZI, an Indian restaurant, for a couple of chicken dishes.

Keeping with our Starbucks strategy (being about the only place we could find decaf coffee amid all the wonderful Vietnamese coffee places), we started Friday off with breakfast at the hotel and a couple of lattes down the street at Starbucks. After that, the first errand of the day was to walk over to a Viettel office and extend our phone SIM card an additional week as we were both about to run out. Easy peasy!

We wandered around the busy streets of the Old Quarter for a few hours before taking a GRAB to the modern Vincom Metropolis center we had visited when we were first here. Then it was back to the hotel to pack up and prepare for tomorrow's excursion. The hotel will hold onto our luggage and also take care of a load of laundry we would leave behind while we are away for 2 nights. We walked down the street to a small bun cha place for dinner. Very good.
Saturday morning we just had time for a quick breakfast before a tour bus picked us up and we were on our way out of Hanoi to Nimh Binh province. Unfortunately this was the one day of rain we would have on our entire trip, although it was only a consistent light rain.

The first stop was at King Dinh Temple in Hoa Lu, ancient capital of Ninh Binh (over 1000 years ago)...
... then a banana boat ride on the Luong River seeing the beauty of Ninh Binh province including some fascinating caves (heads down please), a stop to climb the 400+ steps to the Mua caves (we passed on this part; others said the stairs were really slippery with no handrails)...
... then on to an Eco-lodge for the night. A beautiful setting obscured by the fog and rain.
Sunday morning we packed up and were on our way to an overnight cruise on Ha Long Bay. The rain had totally stopped and we had a huge room with a private balcony on the bow of the ship so had great views of all the islands we sailed past. I think we saw nearly all of the 1,969 islands in the bay. Spectacular scenery. Great food.
This was a much bigger ship than we were on with our foodie tour group. Most of the people were in small groups which tended to keep to themselves. We met a couple from Norway and had a nice chat with them at the open air bar at the stern of the ship.

Nice way to end this week.


Back to Week 4On to Week 6

Tuesday, February 27, 2024

Week 4: Siem Reap to Hoi An, Vietnam


All photos for this trip can be found in our
2024 Vietnam and Cambodia Photo Album
Look for the "Week 4" tag for photos added this week.


The sole purpose of our 5 night trip tp Siem Reap was to visit the Angkor Wat complex. The rest of the time was to just veg out, see some cultural sites and maybe a cooking class. We arranged a cooking class as well as a day excursion to Angkor Wat through our hotel. That was very convenient.

Our hotel put on a great breakfast (included) so that was our first stop each morning. Afterwards we wandered down the block to Starbucks for a very tasty coconut milk latte. This became a daily routine.

Monday morning we walked a short distance to the small but fantastic Made in Cambodia Market, a place with about a dozen stalls for local artisans to sell their handicrats, spices, artwork, jewelry, clothing etc etc etc. The vendors, many disabled, all spoke excellent english and there is no pressure to buy anything. Well, actually, the pressure is that there are so many beautiful goods it is hard to decide what to purchase and almost impossible to come away with nothing. Excellent place to visit.

We followed that up with our cooking class, poolside, back at the hotel.
Later, after a rest by, and in, the pool, we took a tuk tuk into what can only be described as the entertainment center of Siem Reap, Pub Street, where they have almost out-vegased Las Vegas when it comes to neon lights. Quite entertaining. We chose the Khmer Kitchen for dinner and were not disappointed with a nice plate of curry and a plate of stir fried veggies to go with it.
Tuesday we had to skip the Starbucks as this was our early morning tour to Angkor Wat. This is a facinating complex with a lot of restoration going on. Some of the temples have collapsed over time while others have been engulfed by huge tree root systems.
For dinner that night we took a tuk tuk down to Pub Street and checked out a number of places before settling on The Phlok Restaurant for another tasty curry dinner.

Wednesday morning we visited the Artisans Angkor workshop. They have two locations. The one we visited in Siem Reap specializes in training rural youth in traditional Khmer crafts. The other, a silk farm outside the city, has been closed to the public since the pandemic and is yet to re-open. We got a nice tour of the facilities and saw numerous artisans practicing their crafts; wood carving, stone carving, weaving and more.
Artisans Angkor has been chosen to help in restoration of some of the structures at Angkor Wat. Seeing these was really neat.
Later that evening we attended a dinner theatre performance at the Siem Reap Apsara Theatre. The dance performances reminded us a lot of the kathakali performances we saw in Kerala when we toured India many years ago. The costumes are stunning.
Thursday, our last full day in Siem Reap, started with the usual breakfast and Starbucks. Leaving Starbucks we walked towards the river coming across the Preah Ang Chek Preah Ang Chorm Shrine within the compound of the Royal Residence. A fairly large crowd of people was starting to gather around the shrine so we asked about it. The people were gathering to celebrate the full moon and pay respects to Buddha.
Continuing on through the Royal Independence Gardens, we walked along the river stopping at the Satu Concept store, an organization helping local artisans gain wider exposure for their work. Very nice place, then farther along taking a rest for a wonderful fruit smoothie at Angkor Fruit Shake (almost too many choices)...
... before heading into the old market and along Pub Street. From there we took a tuk tuk back to visit the Made in Cambodia market again after which we had a nice lunch at a restaurant next door.
Back at the hotel for some pool time before taking a tuk tuk back to Pub Street where we had a repeat dinner at the Khmer Kitchen. Later that evening we were treated to a brilliant light show provided by the celebrants of the full moon at the shrine we had walked past earlier.
Friday, after breakfast and one last coconut milk latte we finished packing. Our pre-arranged ride to the airport arrived right on schedule and after a brief wait at the newly opened Siem Reap International Airport we were off on our flight to Da Nang Vietnam. We had a multiple entry visa for Vietnam so no issues when we arrived in Da Nang. A bit of a mixup with our ride to our hotel, in Hoi An, but there was a fellow there to meet us, just no car. A couple from Alaska seemed to have the same issue so we chatted with them while we waited. Eventually two cars showed up and we went our separate ways, which ended up being the same place as we were each in different hotels in the same complex. A bit of a surprise when we went down to the common breakfast area the next day and ran into them again.

Back in Hoi An at the Sincerity Hotel. When we stayed here with the food tour group we quite liked it; nice restful hotel, great breakfast, excellent pool and easy to get into Old Town, so it was easy to decide to stay here again just to veg out for 6 days after Siem Reap.

For dinner that night, we walked a few blocks from our hotel to the Noodle House by STREETS, a place run by a non-government organization that provides training and employment opportunities for disadvantaged youth. The food was excellent and the young people learning to ply their trade were charming.

Saturday morning we started another daily routine. Breakfast at the hotel, take a GRAB to Starbucks, then stroll into Old Town and enjoy just walking around in the market, along the river and through the busy side streets. Nice.

Sunday we decided to take a short 10 minute boat ride across the Thu Bon river to Kim Bong Carpentry Village. We had read that there was a ticket office down by the river. Not so much (or at least we couldn't find one). Instead it was a case of wandering along the river listening to all the touts trying to sell various river "cruises". We sort of randomly chose a woman who offered a ride there and back for 300,000 dong (about $15 CDN). She took us across and asked for 200,000 and 100,000 when she takes us back. She gave us a business card and indicated to call her when we were ready. Ok and off we went and off she went. Would we ever see her again?
Anyway, we walked around the small village but only found a few "studio" shops open but the wood carving was pretty spectacular. In one building the post and beam construction was really neat.
After a bit we stopped at a riverside cafe and ordered coconut drinks. The fellow promptly went out back and shook a couple of coconuts out of a tree, lopped the top off them, stuck in straws and handed them to us. Talk about fresh!
A bit more walking and we were back at the pier. We called the designated number. She answered and said she would be there soon. Somewhat skeptical we waited and waited but she did eventually arrive. Nice.

Back in Hoi An we wandered along the river a bit then went to The Morning Glory restaurant (again) for dinner. That is basically how Sunday went and that's it for this week.


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