Saturday, August 25, 2012

Week 22 Cheyenne to Fort Bragg California

Our general travel route for this week...


This week had a bit of a twist to it... we had planned to drive up through Jackson Wyoming over to Boise Idaho then down through Lakeview Oregon on our way out to the coast... BUT the large forest fires burning in Idaho and Oregon changed our plans...

Saturday we headed north out of Cheyenne through Douglas, the Jackalope Capital of the World...


...then west to Casper and on to Riverton where we stopped for the night. This has to be one of the boringest drives around. There really is bugger all to see through central Wyoming... well except for maybe a lot of sage brush...


There's not much in Riverton, tourist wise anyway, so we decided to try out the Wind River Casino located on the Wind River reservation just outside of town. Of all the reservation casinos we have been in this one trails the pack in terms of food... not to mention lousy returns on the poker machines. Good thing we aren't big gamblers! In addition, this is the only casino we have ever visited that did not appear to serve liquor, even in the dining room.

That evening we learned a bit more about the fires in the west. Doing further research using Google we found that there were air quality warnings in Boise, Idaho (large fire just east of the city) and there was an out of control fire about 20 miles west of Lakeview in Oregon. Both places we had planned to stay. We had to decide whether to continue on our original plan or abandon ship and head south west to the coast. We decided on the later and changed course heading south to Rock Springs and on to I-80. (I-80 really is the only way to cross this part of the country through Utah and Nevada).

Not all was lost though. Driving south from Riverton towards Rock Springs and the I-80 interstate we stopped at an overlook with some fantastic views (not all of Wyoming is dead flat)...


We stopped for lunch in Rock Springs and after driving around pretty well the whole damn town we found a little cafe open, went in and had a basic omelette and sausage lunch. Generally as far as Rock Springs goes, if you have ever seen the movie "In Bruges" you will gather what we think of the place! On we went.

Later in the afternoon, after we had entered Utah, we stopped at a rest stop/visitor information center. During the course of discussion an older woman standing beside us suggested we visit the large copper mine just outside of the city. She exclaimed with great excitement that she visited there 11 years ago and it is more than twice the size now. The information officer went on to tell us that the mine is so big you can see it from space. The older woman then said that they have a visitor center and they only charge $5 per car to go in. Kris said "... it's a strip mine, you pay to go see a strip mine?" Both the older woman and the information officer appeared to be surprised at our reactions and hurriedly said "that all the money from the admission is donated to charity you know". We concluded that the Alberta government is going about defending the oil sands the wrong way. They might consider the approach of selling it as a tourist attraction, charge a fee (be a good corporate citizen and donate the money to some charity)... take pride and boast about the size of the place!

Speaking of oil, it was oil change time again for the car so we decided to spend two nights in Salt Lake City. The KOA there is in a very handy location but if they are trying to make the place look like a homeless encampment they are going about it the right way. The first night there was a large goup of people who took over the area where the camp kitchen is, piled their stuff around the sinks and spread their sleeping bags all around on the grass making it a bit intimidating to even go to the restroom. The second afternoon featured (sic) a rather large fellow panhandling. Not the kind of activity you expect or want to see in a KOA. On top of that someone made a hell of a mess in the men's washroom washing dishes (likely because they couldn't get to the camp kitchen sinks) which remained there from the first evening until late in the second day. It took two complaints about the growing pig sty like conditions before any action was taken, the second one being an hour after the scheduled "restroom closed for cleaning". Good grief!

Anyway, all in all we had a good second day in Salt Lake. First thing in the morning the oil change was done, then a drive around downtown (quick stop for a coffee in Starbucks), shopping in a really cool yarn store; while one of us sat in the nice cool shade patio in the yard...


...followed by more driving around cool neighbourhoods. To finish the day we bought tickets to see the Triple A baseball team (Salt Lake Bees) host the Colorado Springs Sky Sox.

Unfortunately our home team mojo appears to be reserved only for MLB teams as the Bees got fairly waxed 12-5. Last year we took in a Boise Hawks game and they too suffered a similiar waxing. On the plus side though they have a great little ball park with pretty cool views out to the mountains...



The highlight of Monday in the city was a terrific late afternoon dinner, before the ballgame, at the Red Iguana Mexican restaurant on North Temple. Excellent place.

Tuesday we continued the great trek across Utah and Nevada. Pretty well almost as boring as central Wyoming. You know others think the same when you see many road signs telling drowsy drivers to pull over and have a rest! One rest area we stopped at had some fabulous rock formations ...


...while another had several signs warning of possible dangers...


This is a long stretch of highway with very little along the way...


Tuesday night we stopped in Winnemucca Nevada at the Hi Desert RV park. This was a great place to stop, clean, well kept park with a very nice pool, and it cools off very nicely in the evening. We had some leftovers to be had for dinner but decided to head into the small town and try our luck at one of their casinos. Not too bad... after an hour and a half or so of video poker while watching a ball game, a couple of glasses of wine each and some munchies we came out about $10 to the good. First positive casino result of this trip.

Wednesday we continued the trek across Nevada, only a couple more hours to go, thank goodness. As we approached Reno the terrain started to get somewhat more interesting. Just past Reno, we took an exit to visit, for the first time, a large Cabela's store. Well, no shortage of taxidermy here that's for sure. Mega size store for all your outdoor needs with emphasis on hunting, fishing and camping. Kris scoped out the fishing rods to see if they had a decent collection of "blue" ones...because that's the only color of rod that will work with the poem "fishy fishy in the lake, won't you come and take my bait!". We looked at a few but decided to wait until we get back to Vancouver Island to invest in fishing equipment.

We stayed Wednesday night at the Coachland RV Park just outside the small tourist town of Truckee a short distance from Lake Tahoe. Very nice park with lots of tall trees etc (we have become somewhat used to the prairie type campgrounds with not much in the way of trees). After getting set up we headed into town, got lost going the wrong way on the Donner Pass Road but eventually made it to town. There must be some irony in getting lost on the Donner Pass road on the way to lunch. Had a look around the very touristy main drag and had a late afternoon pizza lunch in a bistro.

Thursday morning before leaving we called ahead to the Pomo Campground in Fort Bragg on the north California coast to reserve a spot over the weekend. We decided to stay Friday through Sunday and they were able to accomodate us. Nice, it is one of our favorite campgrounds now and Fort Bragg is a pretty cool place to stay.

Thursday we made our way to Chico. We thought about just staying in Oroville at the Casino KOA but we had done a quick visit to Chico a couple of years ago and thought it would be cool to stay there a night even though it would be a farther drive to Fort Bragg on Friday morning. We even had to drive through Oroville to get to Chico. So, we get to the Good Sam rated RV park in Chico only to be rebuffed because the wee trailer is not "fully self contained", even though this restriction is not noted in the Good Sam guide! What a stupid "rule"... but that's how it is. A bit miffed we decided to stop in downtown Chico for a lunch and walk about then just head back to Oroville for the night. Had an excellent lunch, saw some cops arrest what appeared to be a bank robber, wandered around a bit then hit the road back to Oroville (only about 30 minutes) where 5 minutes after checking in, we were in the pool. Not a bad outcome all in all. That evening we walked over to the casino where they took us for some cash but we had a very nice buffet dinner.

Friday we completed the drive across the California central valley and on to the coast. There doesn't seem to be the same drought impact on the crops through this region but there is massive irrigation and there does appear to be lots of water in the irrigation canals. That said, on Highway 20 we saw the devastation caused by wildfires. Through one area, for many miles and as far into the hills we could see are the burned out remains of grassy foothills with the charred remains of oak trees. Many trees are badly burned but many appear to have been flash burned and appear to still be alive. Some may survive in the long run but nature will generally rebuild the area over time.

We stopped in Ukiah at Romi's Brew and BBQ for a bit of western bbq. We had some ribs and chicken. The ribs were good albeit a tad on the greasy side and the chicken was excellent. We took some left over chicken with us for dinner.

We arrived in Fort Bragg and got our first sight of the Pacific (aaah, "our ocean"), checked in and got set up at the Pomo Campground then set off for some groceries and to have a sit on the dock at Herron's By the Sea overlooking the harbour entrance; one of our favorite places to sit and watch the sunset. It was a beautiful evening but unfortunately for us, they were hosting a child's birthday party on their outdoor patio so we had to settle for an indoor seat but the view was still pretty darn good. The addition of the bouncy castle on the deck was an unusual feature not generally associated with having a nice drink overlooking the bay, but the kids were sure tearing it up!


Back to Week 21 On to Week 23

Week 21 Columbia to Cheyenne Wyoming

Our general travel route for this week...


Well it definitely feels like we are in the home stretch now. Leaving Columbia Saturday morning we slowly made our way through more backroads to Oak Grove, just east of Kansas City where we spent the next 4 nights, at the KOA, as we had to wait for the KC Royals to start a home stand on Tuesday before we could catch a ball game here.

The first thing to note is that Kansas City is actually two cities... Kansas City Missouri and Kansas City Kansas. The Kansas City in Missouri is actually where the Kansas City Royals are located and that is why we are here. If you want to see baseball in Kansas City, Kansas you either cross the state line or you can follow the Kansas City T-Bones, a member of the American Association of Independent Baseball (no affiliation with MLB). Who knew there were two Kansas Cities separated by a state line? We always thought there was just Kansas City; in Kansas of course! Man, what you learn when you travel!

We checked into the East Kansas KOA (in Missouri) relatively early so Saturday afternoon we decided to try another "shrine" from our BBQ Bible, Oklahoma Joe's, besides our friends James and Melissa were recently in Kansas City and speak very highly of Oklahoma Joe's. We decided to try out one of the "branch" sites (besides the original there are two other outlets). Using mapquest we figured out where all three were and set out to visit the newest one (just opened in July) in Leawood. We got there to find nothing but office buildings with no sign of any kind of BBQ. We gave up on that one and headed for the one in Olathe. This one we found, went in and had some decent BBQ. We told the cashier that the Leawood address on their website was incorrect and they need to fix it. She and another employee were adamant that it was correct and we told them to get in a car and go see for themselves... well, guess what, it turns out the mathematician in our family transposed a couple of numbers and we were off by about 5 blocks...it's at 11723 Roe Ave not 11273 (duh).

Sunday we drove into downtown Kansas City (the one in Missouri) for a coffee and a look around. It was a pretty normal big city downtown on a Sunday morning. Not much happening. They have some cool old architecture...



We went into Fran's Restaurant, in the Power and Light District, for a late light breakfast then drove around downtown a bit more (nothing being open) before heading over to the historic 18th and Vine district to visit the Negro League Baseball Museum and the American Jazz museum. WOW... These two museums share one building and they are both just fabulous! You know when you are in the 18th and Vine historic district by the street flags...



After spending about 3 hours in the two museums, we drove south through several cool looking neighbourhoods to find BB's Lawnside BBQ where we feasted on some more mighty fine BBQ. They had a very loud band playing inside the relatively small establishment so we opted to sit outside on the patio where we managed to fling a decent amount of bbq sauce on ourselves as we attempted to shoo away flies! Where's that red Cardinal's t-shirt when you really need it???

Later that afternoon, while sitting at our campsite, we saw a cool view of clouds forming...


Monday we drove over to Independence Missouri where we stopped for a Starbucks before touring the National Frontiers Trail Museum. Another excellent and fun museum...


After that it was a bit of shopping, more sightseeing around Kansas City and a try at the BBQ at Oklahoma Joe's Original location. Yummmm!

Tuesday was ball game night so we had to find something to do during the day. After stopping in at the stadium to get tickets for the game (and telling the ticket guy that we pretty well guarantee a win for the Royals), we decided to drive about an hour and a half, south west into Kansas, to Osawatomie to go to the John Brown Museum (recall from previous posts re: the Civil War that John Brown was the abolitionist who, one might say, basically set the wheels in motion for the war). Osawatomie, just south east of Lawrence was pretty much the epicenter of the events known as Bleeding Kansas ,the violence between pro and anti slavery groups.

The museum is very interesting. It is the original cabin of the Adair family, John Brown's half sister. The cabin is essentially intact except for the part that was burned when some goof on a museum break-in spree set fire to the cabin in the 1990's. Back in the 1920's the cabin was recognized as a piece of national history and was moved to it's present location and a stone building was built around it for protection and conservation (except of course for the aforementioned break-in and fire).



Tuesday was also the day that the rain, which has been somewhat following us around, hit the Kansas area. It rained all morning during our drive south to Osawatomie and back again into Kansas but luckily it stopped at least 4 hours before game time. Back in Kansas we decided to try the last of our planned BBQ joint visits in Kansas City, LC's BBQ. They don't have their own website but if you google it there are lots of hits for reviews etc. There are numerous reviews about how run down looking it is etc etc, but this is our kind of bbq place. As one reviewer put it "True BBQ shack, not a fancy chain, just good ole bbq"... and nothing said can be more true than that. Walk in and it's a bit divey looking but clean and the smoke pit is right there so you can see what is happening...


...just make sure the cook isn't in the way of your picture; he went a bit "off his meds" as he skedaddled out of the way muttering "I don't wanna be in a picture; why do people have to take my picture..." amongst other slurs against tourists! We ordered a combo plate of brisket, smoked turkey and ribs, an order of burnt ends and the usual potato salad and slaw.... and it was great! For about $30 we got much more than we could eat in a single sitting. In fact we took away the rest and had it for dinner for the next two nights!



After taking the leftovers back to the trailer to be put in the cooler, we had a brief rest then headed off to Kaufman Stadium to see the Royals take on the visiting Oakland A's. The stadium is right off of I-70 so was easy to get to. It is only the second one on this trip (the other being the Rangers ballpark in Arlington) which is not right downtown. This one is situated in a Sports Complex along with Arrowhead Stadium, the home of the NFL Kansas City Chiefs, about 8 miles or so west of downtown.

Very nice ballpark... and we got free t-shirts too boot. Too bad we weren't there for a bobblehead doll game but that's the way the schedule goes. Our seats were in a great location...



... and there were few other fans around us so foul ball possibilities were high; but of course none came our way; a few to the sections on either side of us. What good is that? The Royals appear to have very loyal fans... the two guys sitting in front of us looked like they came directly from the farm to the game (these were not ironic bib overalls)...


The game started out a bit close, but our home team mojo kicked in when the Royals cashed in 5 runs in the 5th inning and that was it for the night. Final 5-0 Royals.

So that's it for MLB games for this trip. We can call this trip a "mojo" success. 9 games with 7 being won by the home team. The only two visitor wins were by the Yankees for whom, of course, Brian was rooting.

Wednesday we continued our trek west as we headed to WaKeeny Kansas. This was an interstate day as we decided to just get across this part of the country and the scenery across Kansas is pretty much the same doesn't matter how you cut it... and the drought isn't helping. Everything is pretty well bone dry.

On the way to WaKeeny we stopped for lunch in Salina, a commercial hub west of Kansas City. Nice main drag with some beautiful old buildings including the theatre which is on the US National Register of Historic Buildings...


We checked into the WaKeeny KOA and the fellow reminded us that we had stayed there on April 7th on our way south. Was it really that long ago??? Nice clean place with a nice pool (although it wasn't open in April). When we checked in, we asked if the pool was open and the fellow said "...yes, but it is a bit chilly". After checking in we hoped into the pool and it was wonderful! Nice and brisk, not warm like some pools we have encountered. That evening we drove into the small town and stopped in at the historic old Western Kansas Saloon and Grill on main street. Cool old place that must have seen some interesting times.

Thursday we headed north into Nebraska. We stopped in the little town of Oberlin Kansas for a lunch break and found the LandMark Inn a historic bank building that has been converted to a bed and breakfast. Very sweet. The restaurant is open to the public as well as the guests, however they don't have a real menu. They make a certain amount of different dishes and that's it. After seating us, the hostess read off what was available; sort of like "... well we have one omelette, two chef salads, one ham and cheese sandwich, etc...". Lucky we got there when we did otherwise the pickings might have been a tad slim. Excellent lunch though. Continuing on after lunch we stopped for the day in North Platte Nebraska. North Platte is the home of the Union Pacific Railroad's Bailey Yard which they claim is the world's largest classification yard at 2 miles wide and over 8 miles long. We drove over to the rail yards and went up the Golden Spike Tower where you have a view out over part of the yard; being able to see the eastbound hump and the engine maintenance building. When we bought our tickets the young lady in the office assured us that the docent on the 8th floor viewing area would be able to answer any questions. The docent, as it happens was probably old enough to have been present when the last spike was driven, was not able to answer any of our questions (and all the questions were either Union Pacific or railway related, we weren't slipping in any tricky bonus point questions). A family of railway buffs were in the viewing area and they were able to answer our questions, so I guess the docent got to 'call a friend'. All in all, quite an impressive and interesting operation...


Moving west across Kansas the signs of the brutal drought continued. It wasn't until we got up into Nebraska, where it appears there is more irrigation, that we started to see some decent looking crop fields.

Friday we continued west to Cheyenne Wyoming stopping for lunch at Sidney, Nebraska. Sidney is somewhat famous for being the world headquarters of the Cabela's one of the world's largest outdoor outfitter chains. We didn't go into the store in Sidney and, for that matter, have never been in one of their stores but a guy at the campground claims the store in Sidney is the largest outfitter store in the USA.

However, speaking of large things, on the outskirts of the town we drove past quite a large field of sunflowers...


The evening temperature in Cheyenne dropped out of the warm/hot zones we have been used to so we had to unpack our jean jackets for the sit outside, but the sunset sure was worth it...



Back to Week 20 On to Week 22

Tuesday, August 14, 2012

Week 20 Elizabethtown to Columbia Missouri

Our general travel route for this week...


Saturday we headed west towards Owensboro Kentucky. Nice easy drive through the western Kentucky countryside.

We stayed that night at the Diamond Resort, just outside of Owensboro, which was pretty full. There were lots of folks with golf carts and off road vehicles constantly driving around so it was quite noisy. That night there was a country and western singing contest held in the campground theatre so there was a general party atmosphere. Early Sunday morning (about 3:00 am) we got up to go to the restroom where there was a rather sad sounding fellow calling Ralph on the big white phone. Anyway, I digress...

There were two reasons for our stay in Owensboro.

The first was to lunch at the MoonLite BBQ which was featured as one of the national "shrines" in our BBQ Bible. Saturday is a buffet day which is obviously very popular because the place was packed. The buffet was mostly stuff neither of us were particularly interested in so we ordered some ribs and chicken with the regular sides such as potato salad and coleslaw.


It was all quite good but we both concluded that we prefer the atmosphere of places like those in, say, Lockhart, Texas. This was a bit too "restauranty". Not enough taxidermy.

We actually stopped in at Moonlite on the way to the campground so after lunch we continued on, got the trailer set up then headed back into town to go to reason number 2 for being in Owensboro... the International Bluegrass Museum. This place is really cool. For the most part it appears to be a shrine dedicated to Bill Monroe who grew up in the area (they had a special exhibit with a whack of information, pictures, video and audio from his era while we were there), but also features many of the other early Bluegrass stars such as Scruggs and Flatt, and others along with information on current day stars such as the 2011 Entertainer of the Year....


...and the 2011 Album of the Year...


We were the only ones in the museum so it was fun to push the buttons and listen to every one of the audio presentations featuring some truly great pickin'.


We ended up with 4 more great bluegrass cds as we left the museum store. The young lady in the museum also mentioned that the locals actually consider Monlight BBQ to be a bit touristy and that she preferred a place called Old Hickory. Old Hickory also has a location in Lexington which is recommended in one of our BBQ books. The museum lady had recommended the smoked chicken, so we drove off and found the restaurant and made sure it would be open the next day (Sunday). We were their first customers on Sunday morning at 10am, picked up a smoked chicken, slaw and potato salad to go and headed off for the day. When we stopped for the day we had the most delicious bbq/smoked chicken that I have ever had. We also bought some of their bbq sauce which is a Worcestershire sauce base with some tomato paste and peppers and secret spice mix - very runny, about the consistency of tomato soup - but very nice. Not really spicy, just nice.

Sunday we continued west into Illinois towards St Louis. Through western Kentucky and across Illinois we passed by mile after mile after mile of dried up cornfields as far as the eye can see. The drought has been absolutely devastating...



Here's a close up picture, of an ear of corn, that was on the CNNMoney.com website for an article on the worldwide impact the US drought is having on food prices...(corn prices up 30% in July)


Sunday night we stayed at the KOA in Benton, Illinois. Nice place with an excellent pool and good laundry facilities. After a refreshing swim and rest beside the pool to dry off, we no sooner left the pool area than a large tree branch fell landing about 4 feet from where we were sitting. Yikes! The break was likely a result of it being so dry for months on end.

We drove into Benton to get some gas and to have a look around. Pretty little town square with several antique and second hand stores. We wandered through a couple of the antique stores and Kris came away with a collector type vase, bowl and plate for almost nothing. Now we just have to get them home without smashing them during the remainder of our trip!

Monday we headed to St Louis, found the west side KOA and parked ourselves for 4 nights while we await the Thursday afternoon ball game between the Cards and Giants. Another nice cool pool! Something we need with the high 30sC temperatures we continue to get. That night we decided to try SuperSmokers BBQ for dinner. Again, decent ribs and chicken with the usual sides but also tried the tomato and cucumber salad... that we could do without!



Tuesday morning we headed into St Louis to get tickets to the Thursday ball game. Our desire for shade takes us once again to the nosebleeds but at least there is also some breeze up there. With the AAA discount, our tickets were all of $10 a piece. After picking up the tickets we wandered around the outside of Busch Stadium taking pictures of the various statues...



... and going to the team store to pick up souvenirs. That was nice being in there with very few other people compared to during the game when it is shoulder to shoulder.

Leaving the stadium we walked the 3 blocks or so down to the St Louis arch, the Gateway to the West...


We decided it would be cool to ride to the top of the arch and see the city from there. Well... we can only say that this is a "once in a lifetime experience"... as in "once is enough!". The ride up and back is 7 minutes, each way, in a cramped little capsule (they do ask if anyone is claustrophobic) then when we got to the top it was so crowded you could barely move. The windows are tiny little horizontal slits situated about thigh high to the average adult so you have to almost be a contortionist to be able to bend down and look out over the city. Besides that, there were lots of people trying to have their picture taken up there against the grey carpeted walls as a backdrop. What's the point? no way you could tell that they were way up there!. All in all, not a very rewarding experience. We elected to leave pretty well right away, as did another couple we rode up with as they were already at the door waiting for the next car to go down when we got back to the door. We did get one decent picture though, overlooking Busch Stadium...


Leaving the downtown area we drove to a neighbourhood known as The Hill, a mostly Italian area with lots of restaurants where we both had a nice chicken Parmesan lunch. After lunch Kris went sweater shopping at Skif, a funky sweater design and manufacturing place. She was determined to buy a Skif but the prices were considerably lower than she expected so ended up coming away with 3 nice ones because she couldn't decide amongst the three of them.

Wednesday was basically an errands shopping day.

Thursday was ball game day. While at the stadium on Tuesday we found that there is a metro stop right at the stadium and the most westerly stop is about half way to where we were staying. We decided to try the metro so looked at their website to confirm times etc. Unfortunately, Brian, the math whiz somehow calculated that if we caught the 12:20 pm metro, which would take us 30 minutes to get to the stadium, we would get there in plenty of time to see the start of the game at 12:45 pm... let's do the math...12:20 + 30 = 12:50... hmmm... in retrospect it seems like we might arrive late... and we did. It was the bottom of the first when we walked into the stadium and just missed Carlos Beltran's home run giving the Cards a 2-0 lead. RATS!

Anyway, this was a tough game. Our home team mojo dictated that the Cards should win and Kris's favorite team mojo dictated that the Cards should win...BUT Brian's favorite team in the National League is the Giants so what to do??? Well, Brian took one for the team, left his favorite team mojo at home (as Kris suggested he might do), heck he even wore a Cardinals tee...


... and in the end the home team Cardinals came out ahead 3-1 leaving our record for this trip at 6-2 in favor of the home team... Brian now has a nice red Cardinals t-shirt which he can feel free to wear to the BBQ restaurants where the red sauce often goes astray.

All in all it was a good game and our nosebleed seats turned out to be fabulous with a great view of the field and out over the city, including the arch... 


Friday we packed up from St Louis and headed for Columbia, Missouri our stop for the night and end of the week. Another back roads drive past more dried up cornfields than one would care to see. We had enough time, after setting up the trailer at the Cottonwoods RV Park to do a bit of a drive around. Columbia is a college town with, what appears to be, a very vibrant downtown area... nice! After our brief tour we stopped at a grocery store for dinner items then on the way back to the RV park, we went into a Menards (never been in one of these) which has to be the largest home hardware type of store we have ever been in. This place is huge. They even sell towels and clothing. Kris figured it's because folks go in there and get lost so after a couple of days need these things to freshen up a bit in order to keep looking around! The selection of lumber and other home handyman must haves...WOW! BUT... no room in the wee trailer :-(

Back to Week 19 On to Week 21

Tuesday, August 7, 2012

Week 19 Milton to Elizabethtown Kentucky

Our general travel route for this week...


Saturday morning we decided to drive into Huntington for a coffee and wander around the historic downtown area. Driving into the city we passed by Marshall University (remember the movie We Are Marshall about the football team that was decimated in a plane crash). We were told later that if this university was to close, the entire city would likely do so as well. Arriving downtown we discovered we had walked into the 8th annual Hot Dog Festival which features, yes you guessed it, Weiner Dog Races. We weren't able to get close enough to see the races but we sat at a corner window of a Starbucks and watched many little weiner dogs go by...


After coffee we wandered around the festival area for a bit then into a local restaurant where we had what is undoubtably the worst lunch of our trip.

Later we drove back out towards Milton and went to the Blenko Glass Factory. The factory was not open for tours but we had a good look around their gift store and museum while the skies opened up and it started to rain heavily outside. Lots of beautiful pieces but none that made our hearts sing loudly so we left empty handed. Interesting though and they had a really neat fence incorporating a variety of glass pieces...


Saturday night was, well, in a word, fabulous. Aside from James and Melissa's wedding this could be the top highlight for this trip.

We took in the 40th Anniversary show of the Mountaineer Opry House. We hoped it would be worth the drive across Kentucky and it definitely did not disappoint! We arrived early to make sure we got tickets and had lots of time to chat with various folks including the organizers, the Gabeharts who were part emcee, part headline band and some other long time fans of the opry house. One older woman Brian chatted with was really cute...

She said she has seen every saturday night show for more years than she can remember but she does remember that she attended the very first show 40 years ago. "I live just 5 miles up the road you know" she told me. I said she must be a super fan because she was sitting in the front row! She laughed at that and said "I guess so"...I asked her if she had an absolute favorite Bluegrass band and she said "... goodness, they are all so good I couldn't possibly choose, but I always come out on Saturday night. They have really good hot dogs here you know!"... what a hoot!

Anyway, this old hall (one might even say fire trap) probably holds upwards of 600-700 people and on this night was only about half full if that. The guy who organizes it told me that the whole area is suffering from the ongoing recession so some nights the crowds aren't so good but "... we get by". He said that they have top notch players scheduled a few times a year and the place is packed with folks standing along the side walls and across the back. We got the feeling that most, if not all of the players this night were playing for free... "...just happened to be around; sometimes we never know who will pop in and be ready to play...". Pretty cool old guy. There is some concern who might pick up the reins when he and his wife (she apparently does all the bookings) get too old (they are in their late 70's now) to carry the torch. We sure hope someone does.

The shows normally run from about 7:30 until 9:30 with a 15 minute intermission. This show started at 7:30 and finished after 11:00. They had so many performers and most of them are from right around the area; well maybe a county or two over. There were several past state champion pickers for banjo, mandolin, fiddle and guitar and they were all absolutely fabulous. At the end of the show they had everyone on stage to do the "will the circle be unbroken" song and at one point 5 champion banjo pickers were up front. One of the former state champion banjo players played a couple of songs with this grandson who is a very fine young (12ish or there abouts) fiddle player.

All in all a great night.







Sunday we decided to do the first leg of a loop through the backwoods of West Virginia, South east Ohio and northern Kentucky to just south of Cincinnati where we hope to see the Reds take on the Padres Thursday afternoon. Sunday's drive was pretty much due north along the Ohio river. Very winding and sometimes narrow roads through the valleys up towards the Hocking Hills where we stayed at the KOA in what might be the prettiest setting we have stayed in this trip. Near the office building there is a tree with several hummingbird feeders. We stood and watched as perhaps as many as a dozen hummingbirds flitted about and landed on the feeders....


... and nearby another tree which was obviously very attractive to hundreds of beautiful butterflies...


Monday we completed the backwoods loop from Ohio south into Kentucky and west across the northern part of the state towards Vevay, just south of Cincinnati. Again very narrow winding country roads. At one point the road got so narrow we thought we might have taken a wrong turn; stopped and asked a woman driving behind us if we were on the right track. She assured us we were and that a mere few miles down the road we would come to a much more significant cross road which is the one we were headed for. Along the way we stopped in Falmouth KY for a lunch in a little corner cafe. We chatted with the waitress and went out and showed her the wee trailer at which point she gasped... "... goodness, you've travelled 4 months in that thing... my marriage wouldn't have lasted 4 months if we had to stay in that... wait... my marriage didn't last 4 months anyway!" she laughed. Many of the small towns along the way have obviously been hard hit and many of the homes we passed by were small single and double wide trailers, most not looking all that appealing.

Tuesday and Wednesday were shopping, car service (oil change) and general sightseeing in and around Cincinnati. We stayed just outside of Vevay, Indian which is about an hours south west of Cincinnati on I-71. The drive into Cincinnati is not as bad as the drive into Atlanta but the traffic does move at a pretty quick pace and there are hundreds and hundreds of large transport trucks and it seems that none of them are shy about tailgating at fairly high (70-80mph) speeds...I.E maybe one small car length space to the vehicle in front of the truck.

Monday night we stopped in at the nearby Belterra Casino, left behind a small amount in the casino and had a couple of glasses of wine at the main bar while we watched a bit of the ball game. This place, sort of out in the middle of nowhere appears to have quite a lot of room for conventions and entertainment. In the lobby of the convention area they have a fabulous collection of guitars, all autographed by the performers. Some names we saw were B.B. King, Willie Nelson, Chubby Checker, Trisha Yearwood to name a few...


Wednesday, after getting the car serviced we drove up to the Over the Rhine neighbourhood of Cincinnati where we stopped in at the Rookwood Restaurant housed in the old Rookwood Pottery Studios. Pretty neat place with lots of fabulous old pottery on display. They have also fashioned the huge kilns into individual little rooms...


We had a very nice lunch followed by the best ice cream we have had since Grom in Italy. We tried a sampler plate of the different flavors but liked the "goat cheese with cherries" the best...



After lunch we drove over to the Cincinnati Art Museum and wandered around there a bit before calling it a day. A cool thing there is no entrance fees. Apparently some wealthy benefactor put up the money to support free entrance.

Thursday it was back into Cincinnati for the early afternoon ball game between the Reds and the visiting San Diego Padres. Outside the main gate they have a neat sculpture consisting of a pitcher, batter and catcher all three of whom are Reds greats...


We often like to sit in the Club Level at ball parks as it normally has great seats, better than average food and if it gets too hot out you can go inside and watch the game on tv in air conditioned splendor. In Cincinnati, they sell the Club Level seats as a full package including food and non-alcoholic drinks but the price is exhorbitant. Normally we have paid between $40 and $60 for those seats but here they are $85 to $100. Well there is no way we are going to eat $80 to $100 worth of food between us so we opted for nosebleed seats ($17 each) way up on the first base side (looking right down the first to second base line) where we knew we would have shade... and we did... and it was a darn good thing. The temperature hit over 40C and most of the rest of the stadium was in the full sun all afternoon. Being way up in the cheap seats means great views not only of the field but over the city beyond...


... but also means you are sitting where they seat the very large groups of young school/groups on a special outing.

Anyway, Great American Ballpark is a nice park in a nice location and as usual our home team mojo worked it's magic as the Reds popped a quick 6 runs in the bottom of the second then cruised to a 9-4 win.

Our record on this trip is now: Home team 5 wins; Visiting team 2 wins.

The game ended right about the beginning of the Cincinnati rush hour. We had thought we might wander around the riverfront and downtown area after the game but once again we hit a "too darn hot" afternoon for much wandering. It appears Cincinnati, being down in a bit of a bowl by the river is much hotter than up the hill south on the Kentucky side. We waited for the parking lot to clear before heading out. Our car thermometer, measuring outside temperature, hit 46C while in the traffic getting out of downtown but a number of miles south and at slightly higher altitudes it was down to 35C and was still at 35C when we arrived back at the campground where we immediately hit the pool. A bit later, for the first time since we have been here, another couple hit the pool as well. They are from a place near Lexington and the guy told us that if we were heading towards Lexington to stay off of highway 127 as it is known as the worlds longest yard sale. He said Friday morning might not be too bad but Saturday and Sunday, well, "plan to add a couple of hours to your trip"!

Friday we headed south towards Harrodsburg, just south east of Lexington. Sticking with our desire to stay off of the interstate, we did head south on highway 127 and buddy was right. We passed yard sale after yard sale while on 127, some of them with cars parked along the highway for hundreds of yards on either side and people walking all over the highway. Definitely slowed us down a bit so we could only imagine what it would do on Saturday.

North east of Lexington, at Frankfort, we left 127 to continue south on highway 60 in order to pass through Versailles (here it is pronounced ver-sails not like that other place ver-sigh). This is the home town of the fellow who taught us drawing lessons while in Rome with Marian a couple of years ago. If we ever run into him again we can say... "we've been to Versailles Kentucky!". It is actually a beautiful looking small city. Driving through this part of Kentucky it is really pretty. There are some 5,000 horse farms around Lexington and we must have passed a healthy number of them.

A little after noon we stopped at the Shaker Village at Pleasant Hill, a restored Shaker village with working craftsmen etc. We had a terrific lunch in their dining hall then toured the village for about 3 to 4 hours chatting with the various crafts people and watching them at work...


Later in the afternoon we headed off west towards Elizabethtown our planned stop for the night and the end of this week.

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