Monday, May 25, 2015

Week 8: Lexington to Pittsburgh Pennsylvania

Our general travel route for this week...


We also added lots more pics to our Picasa web album for this trip.

Sunday we continued our trek northward into Virginia. First stop was lunch at the Galax Smokehouse on the main street in Galax VA. Kris had the pulled pork with a side of slaw and smoked mashed potatoes. Unfortunately they were totally sold out of ribs so Brian settled for the boneless rib ends with slaw and a whole smoked potato. Absolutely delicious. We are going to have to try the smoked potatoes in our smoker when we get home. Wandering around the downtown area we saw many posters for festivals, concerts and other musical events. This one looked like it would be a lot of fun but we have a date with the Pittsburgh Pirates on Memorial Day weekend...


Many towns/cities we drive through have some sort of theme sculptures on display. In Calgary they had the "painted cows". Here they have large "painted fiddles" on display around town...


Leaving Galax we drove about an hour north to the town of Floyd where, in the Floyd Country Store (sort of an old fashioned general store), they have free music jam sessions on Sunday afternoons. On this day we sat and listened, for about two hours, to 15 musicians (banjos, fiddles, mandolins, guitars) play traditional mountain music...


 Later in the afternoon the jam sessions were more blue grass specific but it was getting a bit late and we had to be on our way to our planned stop at the KOA in Fancy Gap for the night. On the way to Fancy Gap we ran into a really heavy rain storm but luck was with us, it skipped past Fancy Gap and we were dry there.

After getting set up at the KOA we drove up the road to the local Dollar General to see what we might pick up for a light dinner (the lunch in Galax was pretty well most of what we needed for the day). This is the first Dollar General we have been in but we have seen these Dollar General stores all over the south and in many small communities it is the only "grocery" store we see. It is the only store within about 30 kms of Fancy Gap. It is actually a bit sad because these stores carry no fresh fruit or vegetables. On this day the three people in front of us had nothing but junk food (literally Twinkies and the like) in their baskets. We found a package of sliced ham that we used to augment a light dinner of tomatoes and broccoli that we had left over.

Monday we continued north veering a little eastward as we headed for Appomattox Court House where General Lee surrendered his Army of Northern Virginia to General Grant, ending the Civil War (although fighting went on for a couple more months). The surrender took place in the McLean house...


Although most of the buildings at Appomattox Court House are original from the Civil War era, the McLean house is one that had to be rebuilt. We asked the Ranger/Docent at the house why it was not kept up in it's original form. He related this story....A number of years after the end of the war, a private company bought the house and totally dismantled it with the intent of taking it to Washington. Unfortunately the company went bankrupt and the dismantled house sat as a pile of lumber and bricks on the road, in front of the original property, for the next 50 years and slowly disappeared as local farmers, collectors and nature itself took away bits and pieces as they needed them. The remaining bits of bricks etc were finally salvaged, the house was rebuilt and is apparently a very accurate reconstruction of the original house.  A few original furnishings but mostly other period furniture placed quite appropriately, for historical accuracy, to depict where both Lee and Grant sat in the parlor.

Talking with the Ranger about this past April being the 150th anniversary of the surrender we asked what celebrations they had. April 8-12th they had re-enactments etc. Over 24,000 people visited the park with well over 18,000 coming through the McLean house. Wow... he said it was way beyond busy, bordering on insanity. Sorta glad we visited at this time when there were only 3 other people and us.

Anyway, a number of neat original buildings in the park include the general store, a law office and a tavern where, over the course of a few days, the Federals set up a printing press and printed 30,000 parole forms for the Confederate army soldiers to carry with them to guarantee passage and free transportation back to their homes and farms...


As an aside, the little town of Appomattox itself has little to offer. In the early evening we attempted to search out a restaurant. The best we could do was a Pizza Hut. There is one main street cafe and one "fancy" restaurant but both were closed.

Monday night we stayed at the Paradise Lake RV park a few kms out of town. Nice location but the washrooms were pretty disgusting. Sometimes we do understand why people like to have their own washrooms in their RVs. Lucky for us the well maintained, clean ones far outnumber the bad.

Tuesday morning we returned to the National Park for another couple of hours. The visitors center has an excellent museum with film clips etc etc. To boot, it was a beautiful sunny morning, perfect for a bit of sketching. Our last stop at Appomattox Court House was the little Confederate Cemetery at the entrance to the park...



A bit before noon we headed off towards Winchester Virginia, our planned stop for the night. After a stop at Starbucks in Lynchburg we headed north across the Blue Ridge mountains into the Shenendoah Valley. We stopped in Harrisonburg for a visit to the Virginia Quilt Museum with it's fabulous displays of period quilts (no photos allowed though)...


... followed by an excellent lunch of artichoke/cheddar soup followed by salad with grilled salmon for Kris and a bacon cheese hamburger with a black eyed peas salad for Brian at Clementine on Main Street. Man, that was good! It would have been cool to stay in Harrisonburg through next weekend as James Madison University plays host to the NCAA Regional Women's Softball Championships but we have to stay focused... Pirates await in Pittsburgh.  On our trip through this area a few years ago we drove north to Winchester on US-11. Nice drive through beautiful scenery but quite slow as it took a couple of hours to get to Winchester. This time we opted to hop onto I-81 where it was a much quicker drive of about an hour helping to make sure we arrived early enough to take a good dip in the pool at the Candy Hill Campground just outside the city. The pool was nice and cool (some might say cold) and we had it all to ourselves :-)

Wednesday was a shorter driving day taking us to Gettysburg Pennsylvania. As we neared Gettysburg our trusty GPS decided we should take a few small country roads to get to the Gettysburg Campground just south of town. This is a beautiful campground with about 200 sites. They are expecting to be packed full for the Memorial Day weekend (ie starting tomorrow) but today is practically empty, except for one wee trailer...


After getting set up we drove into Gettysburg for some lunch and to have a look around. For lunch we stopped at the Cafe Saint Amand, a French bistro (yes, we know... not much Civil War authenticity there, but it reminded us of last year in Paris).  A nice Salade Nicoise for Kris and the Croque Madame for Brian was pretty good but a bit heavy on the Dijon mustard :-( After lunch we drove around a bit and found it hard to believe how much has changed since we visited here some 30 years ago. The town must have building standards ensuring that any new building in the central core area is in the style of the Civil War era as it is much more built up now. You can still identify original Civil War era buildings though because they have plaques identifying them as such...


Later at the Gettysburg National Battlefield Museum and visitors center, we bought a ticket package that included the film "A New Birth of Freedom" narrated by Morgan Freeman and explains the Battle at Gettysburg and Lincoln's Gettysburg Address. The second part of the ticket package was the Cyclorama Painting, a massive painting originally displayed in 1884 (much restored now) that surrounds the visitor with the fury of Pickett's Charge, the decisive struggle of the three day war and possibly the mistake that cost General Lee the overall war. Both the film and the Cyclorama are excellent and well worth seeing. Our ticket package also included museum entrance and a bus tour of the battlefield area itself but those are for tomorrow.

Wednesday we decided to start off with a breakfast at the historic Gettysburg Hotel before heading back to the visitor center.  Our bus tour started at 12:30 PM and lasted 2 hours. Excellent tour with the docent providing detailed descriptions of troop placements, tactics and strategies used during the 3 day battle. After the bus tour we used the last of our ticket package to visit the museum. This too is just excellent.  One of the most poignant displays, highlighting Gettysburg and Civil War battle statistics is at the entrance to the museum...


That was an excellent two days at Gettysburg. To finish off Thursday we stopped in at the Pub & Restaurant tavern, on Lincoln Square for some wine and wings. Arriving back at the campground we found we were totally surrounded by other trailers and RVS. The place was packed and it wasn't even Friday yet. Spoke to one couple who live only a few years away but this place is their Memorial Day Weekend getaway and they have reserves the same spots for many years for a family gathering.

Friday morning just after leaving the campground we drove down Black Horse Tavern Road where we passed an old small cemetery that we thought was interesting. Going into the small, well maintained, cemetery we discovered it was a Revolutionary War era cemetery with maybe a couple of dozen graves. We found a couple of headstones that were barely readable, one of which showed the person passed on "27th of December 1772 aged 60 years". Another indicated "she was 88 years old". Several graves have had a Revolutionary War marker placed beside them ...




It was a fairly long drive to Pittsburgh so we opted to do part of it on the Pennsylvania Pike and paid a toll of $12.50, but it cut off nearly an hour of driving time.  We booked into the Washington, Pennsylvania KOA, about 35 minutes south of Pittsburgh, for the Memorial Day weekend. We are normally a bit cautious about KOA's on long weekends but this one turns out to be quite small and is on quite a hill so we suspect that any kids that are here get tired out pretty quickly going up and down the hill. It is actually quite quiet.

Saturday was ballgame day. We headed into Pittsburgh late morning in order to have time for a lunch before heading to the ball park early in an attempt to score a bobble head doll. Today's game featured Josh Harrison (3rd baseman for the Pirates) bobble head doll for the first 20,000 fans. We thought we could spend a bit of time wandering around downtown Pittsburgh but it, in our opinion, does not have a particularly friendly street presence. Relatively narrow sidewalks with few plazas so it feels like you are walking amongst deep canyon walls. Some beautiful buildings, that we later saw from the ball park, were difficult to see from street level.

Anyway, walking across the Roberto Clemente bridge from downtown you get a great view of PNC Park...


... and from our seats up behind home plate we had a great view back across the bridge towards downtown....



The game was a sellout so the place was packed. Our home team mojo helped the Pirates make the home town fans go away happy as the Pirates never trailed the Mets in an 8-2 win with A.J. Burnett getting the win and improving his pitching record to 4-1 on the season while Mets ace Matt Harvey saw his record fall to 5-2. There were 3 dingers, 2 by the Pirates (McCutchen and Alvarez) and one by the Mets (Tejada). We did end up scoring a couple of Josh Harrison bobble heads...



...along with a few other giveaways, the first was a coupon, for every fan, for a free Denny's Grand Slam breakfast due to a Pirate hitting a home run in the second inning, the second was a free chicken sandwich, with your game ticket, at an area Chick-fil-A, due to the Pirates pulling off a double play in the third inning and the last was a free iced drink at any Dunkin Donuts due to the Pirates scoring at least 5 runs. We'll see what we make of the free food items.

The Pirates Charities hold a 50-50 raffle every game and with the sellout crowd the announced total sales for this game was over $30,000. Some lucky fan, and darn, it was not us, went home with a cool $15,000. How nice would that be to win!!!

It seems that every park has some kind of mascot race and in Pittsburgh it is the Perogy Race. It was fun to watch and had the whole place cheering. FUN...


 

PNC park was Major League Baseball park number 20, only 10 more to go, next up is Philadelphia... 


Back to Week 7On to Week 9



Wednesday, May 20, 2015

Week 7: Asheville to Lexington North Carolina

Our general travel route for this week...



Although we really like Asheville, it was time to move on.

Over the weekend we made a significant change to our original planned itinerary. Rather than head south to Savannah Georgia we will only go as far south as Wilmington on the North Carolina coast. Plus, rather than hit Pittsburgh, for a Pirates base ball game, after Boston, we would go from Wilmington to Pittsburgh via the west side of Virginia, before going to Washington DC. This will give us much more time in New England after seeing a ball game in Boston on June 25th before we need to be in Cleveland for a game on July 12. The added benefit is that we have booked a KOA spot not far out of Pittsburgh for the Memorial Day weekend. Must always remember to book far ahead for holiday weekends!

We were also watching the weather as tropical storm Ana was expected to hit the Carolina coast sometime Monday or Tuesday at the latest. We planned to take 3 days to get to Wilmington by which time Ana should have hit landfall and dissipated a lot. Fingers crossed!

So, Sunday morning we headed east. A relatively easy 3 hour drive to Fort Mill, South Carolina, a suburb of Charlotte, North Carolina. We stayed at the KOA and it was a tad disappointing. This has to be the most un-KOA of all the numerous KOAs we have ever stayed in. The park itself is not a bad setting but he office is across the road in a gas station and the restrooms bordered on filthy. ENOUGH SAID... the only real redeeming feature is the nearby John's Bar (they claim it is "on site at the KOA" but it too is across the road). There is also a nearby Publix grocery story that is quite convenient. We wandered over to the Publix and picked up some ready made salads for lunch and some chicken wings to snack on later. Later in the early evening we walked over to John's Bar for some wine and watched some sports (mostly baseball highlights) on their bigger screen TVs. The waitress, Hannah, was a pleasant young lady but, boy, could she turn tough in a minute. We witnessed that when she had to toss out a guy that was a tad inebriated and was acting up a bit. She did not take one iota of sh*t from that guy!

Monday we continued eastward with a stop at Sleepy Bear's RV Park just outside of Lumberton, NC. Friendly folks there helped us get a spot with lots of shade and pretty close to the restrooms. For lunch we drove into Lumberton to Fuller's Old Fashioned Bar-B-Que...


... a place advertising in the KOA sheet. This place gives you the option of having menu or buffet service. We opted for the buffet (for all of $8 each). They had a great selection of "sides" with a few bbq dishes and whacks of desserts. We tried the pulled pork (even though they do chop it into little bits in these parts - not our favorite way to get it), sausage and baked chicken (it might have been baked on the bbq), some macaroni, collard greens and other veggies. To finish off we tried the Sweet Potato Pie, Lemon Meringue Pie and Lemon cake.... all quite delicious. All in all, a pretty good meal for the dollars. After lunch we asked our GPS to find us a Starbucks. Nearest one about 15 kms away in Pembroke. So off we go, only to discover a vacant building when the GPS told us that we had now "arrived at Starbucks on the left". Drat! Continuing down the same road we went into the University of North Carolina campus where we noticed a sign pointing to "Starbucks in Lowry Hall". Well, like most campus roads, we have been on, it seemed to be a case of "you can't get there from here". We stopped a couple of young, student looking, men to ask how to get to Lowry Hall. One guy was "first day on campus" and didn't have a clue where he was, never mind Lowry Hall. The second guy knew where the hall was but since he only walked on campus didn't know how to get there driving. So he told us some landmarks to look for and off we went. We had to drive off campus and come back on again but eventually we found it. As we walked up to the door we realized that they should have closed about 10 minutes earlier... but... lucky for us the door was still open so in we went and they were nice enough to fix a couple of iced lattes for us. Outside they have a nice seating area with lots of shade trees. Classes are not in session right now so very few students around. We chatted briefly with one young women who is a junior studying political science and is looking forward to the start of classes in a couple of weeks.

Leaving Pembroke we headed back towards the RV park. On the way we drove through the town of Lumberton so we could gas up the car before returning to the park. Typical smallish town with a main drag and lots of fast food outlets at the freeway exits but that's about all. Once back, at the RV park, we hit the pool which was very nice although there were some ominous looking dark clouds heading our way. There was one young woman and her two kids in the pool and she thought the water was very cold. We thought it was wonderful :-)  After about half an hour in the water we got out to lay on the provided pool chaise lounges but within a few minutes a heavy wind had come up. One umbrella got turned inside out so we decided it was time to vacate the premises. The heavy wind kept up for a bit but no rain. We found out later that two umbrellas had been blown into the pool and one flew the coop over the fence into the neighbouring property.

Tuesday was to be a short drive (an hour and a half or so) out to the coast at Wilmington NC. We thought we would put a "no highways" restriction on our GPS to see what route it would take us to Wilmington. Without that restriction it will just take us on the fastest freeway. This time it was a bit of both and about 30 miles out of Wilmington the GPS took us on a turn up a back country road and indicated that we had more than an hour of driving time left. Ok... let's see where this goes. Well, it took us right past the "Battle of Moore's Creek Bridge" National Park, so in we went. Turns out the visitor center is closed on Tuesdays so we were left to just read some of the markers etc. Unfortunately the main path leading to the (reconstructed) actual battle area was under a fair amount of water so we had to give it a miss. Turns out this battle was a key battle in the American Revolutionary War where a relatively small handful of North Carolina colonists turned back a much larger loyalist (British) contingent essentially breaking the back of the loyalists in this part of America. Shortly thereafter North Carolina became the first colony to declare it's desire for independence from Britain. Not being able to follow the path, we left and headed down the small back road into Wilmington and the KOA our stop for a few nights. After getting checked in we drove into the historic downtown part of Wilmington. For lunch we stopped in at the Reel Cafe on Dock Street for some oysters and salads. After lunch we wandered around the area for a bit. On the way back to the KOA we stopped at a Starbucks for the usual iced lattes then at Harris Teeter, an excellent grocery chain store, for some salad fixings for dinner. Having a Harris Teeter loyalty card definitely saves a bit of cash. Back at the KOA we hit the pool... aaaahhh! It was a wonderful evening out so we hooked up our TV outside,  watched a ball game then some of our Sons of Anarchy DVD set that we are currently working our way through.

Wednesday we headed, with coffee in hand, down to Wrightsville Beach, one of the islands off the coast at Wilmington. What a beautiful area with white sand beaches as far as the eye can see....


... besides a group of young folks playing frisbee, there were very few others around. Although we didn't go swimming we did take the opportunity to stick our toes into the warm waters of the Atlantic...


Leaving the beach, for lunch we tried the ocean side restaurant Oceanic where we were able to sit outside on their pier and enjoy the nice views up and down the coast. By this time a lot more people on the beach, or maybe this is just a more popular area...



The clam chowder was quite good although a bit thick; very nice beet and goat cheese salad; excellent crab cake with side salad. Another lunch that will basically do us for the day. After lunch we headed back into the historic downtown area for some more looking around. On the way back to the KOA we stopped in at The Fresh Market for some dinner salads then back to the KOA to do some laundry. Later in the afternoon it was time for another dip in the KOA pool and another nice evening to sit outside to watch the New York Rangers beat the Washington Capitals in the NHL playoffs,  then one episode of Sons of Anarchy before calling it a day. We also informed the KOA folks that we have decided to stay one more day. So we'll leave Friday rather than Thursday.

Thursday was another coffee at the beach day; this time at the Carolina Beach a bit further south from Wrightsville Beach, although every bit as beautiful...


While there we chatted with a fellow who was fishing from shore. On a good day he said he might catch a 15" flounder. During the chat he recommended we take the ferry over to Southport; said it was only $5... hmmm sounds good; so off we went. He was right. $5 one way ticket for car and passengers. (Try to match that BC Ferries!!!). Had a very nice lunch at the Fishy Fishy Cafe on the marina in Southport. After checking out the small downtown we headed back to the ferry and returned over to the outer island and on back up the highway to the KOA. It had cooled off quite a bit so we passed on the pool this day and got ourselves ready to depart on Friday. We're glad we stayed the extra day here. This is a very nice area with wonderful white sand beaches that likely get pretty packed in the heat of the summer.

Friday we drove north to Goldsboro where our BBQ Bible highly recommended Wilber's Barbecue, as the best example of "east North Carolina BBQ". So a stop there for lunch was in order. Easy drive north and easy to find the BBQ joint. In all honesty, neither one of us is enamored with Carolina style BBQ. In these parts they typically don't do ribs. The chopped pulled pork is a texture that neither one of us cares for. Others, however, clearly like this style as Wilber's has won many awards...


The sides and especially the Hush Puppies were pretty good though. Those things are darn near habit forming.

Leaving the restaurant we noticed a number of people standing near the edge of the parking lot. We went over and asked a couple if they were just watching the grass grow or was there something else about to happen? They explained that on just the other side of the stand of trees across the field is the Seymour Johnson Air Force Base and the Thunderbirds are practicing for the annual air show happening in Goldsboro starting on Saturday. They said that the Thunderbirds should be flying directly overhead any minute now. We stayed and chatted with them for about 15 minutes then all of a sudden you could hear a roar growing louder and then the jets appeared directly overhead. The noise was deafening but what a show. We hung around for about half an hour and saw numerous maneuvers put on. The neatest was when 4 of them in wing tip to wing tip formation roared overhead no more than a few hundred meters.  Hard to get pics with our little point and click but we got a few (we asked the fellow we were chatting with if he wouldn't mind emailing us a couple of his pics; he said he would but nothing as of the publishing of this post)...



Reminded  us of the Snowbirds back home in Comox.

Leaving the show we headed a bit west for Four Oaks our stop for the night at the Raleigh Oaks RV Park. This place is an older park that apparently has relatively new owners who have put a whack of money into it. The restrooms are as good as any we have experienced in our travels and deserve better than the maximum 10* that Good Sam Club rated them at. There is a new pool but it was a tad populated with young kids so we opted for the older pool which was perfect and we had it all to ourselves. Very nice. When registering for the park we discovered that we were only 15 minutes or so away from the site of the Battle of Bentonville, March 19-21, 1865, the bloodiest Civil War battle in North Carolina...


We decided to head over to the battle site first thing in the morning. The visitor center was very interesting but unfortunately the timing for a guided tour of the Harper House, furnished to interpret a functioning Civil War hospital, did not mesh with our timing but we had a look around the grounds etc before heading on our way...


Our goal for Saturday was west to Lexington, NC to check out Lexington Barbecue, a place recommended by our BBQ Bible as the best of "west North Carolina" BBQ. We stopped there just after noon and it was quite busy.  The main difference between this place and Wilber's is that they offer coarse chopped and sliced pork as well as the normal "chopped" style. Kris ordered sliced and Brian ordered coarse chopped. Kris' was quite tasty but unfortunately Brian's turned out to be the normal chopped and was not all that desirable (chips and salad were not bad though)..


 Kris' order came in, what we would call a small fish and chip tray. They don't give you a knife and we figured it was because if you cut a hole in the "tray" you'd have quite a mess with the very runny, albeit quite tasty, slaw they serve...



We didn't notice that Brian's was not the coarse chopped until later, when leaving, we noticed a guy sitting at the counter and he clearly had "coarse chopped". That actually looked better. So that's it for Caroline "cue" for us. We both definitely prefer Texas "cue" over the chopped style. So far the only Carolina exception is 12 Bones in Asheville where the ribs are right up there with those we tried in Texas. Oh well... that's that!

We stayed the night at the Cross Winds Family Campground just south of Lexington. Very friendly folks at this place. When we went to use the pool there was a woman there who told us that it was very cold... not this again!  Much to her surprise, we just walked right in. The water was wonderful!

That evening we found that the campground owners had arranged a blue grass band to play there. We went over and watched with about 50 other folks. Very good music. They were an adhoc group of guys rather than an organized band  (we bought a couple of their individual cds)...


A nice way to end this week.


Back to Week 6On to Week 8


Monday, May 11, 2015

Week 6: Tuscumbia to Asheville North Carolina

Our general travel route for this week...


Sunday, leaving Tuscumbia, we drove through the local towns of Florence, Sheffield and Muscle Shoals, a relatively small metropolitan area which we have learned is known for "Muscle Shoal Sound", as local recording studios have played a major role in shaping the history of popular music. We also found out that Tuscumbia is home to the Alabama Music Hall of Fame. Unfortunately it closed early on Saturday and is not open Sundays so we missed that opportunity.

It was a nice leisurely drive north towards Nashville, well except for the last 30 miles or so when we hit I-65 and it was like heavy rush hour. Must have been many folks returning home after the weekend outing or something. We stayed at the Nashville KOA on Music Valley Drive not far from the Grand Ole Opry. Unfortunately our timing did not jive with the Grand Ole Opry schedule but that's ok as we did see it when we were in Nashville a few years ago. After getting set up at the KOA we decided to try some "Nashville BBQ". We found a place named Drifter's which claimed to do great ribs and other BBQ. It is located in the rather funky Five Points neighborhood of East Nashville. A number of cool clothing stores and other bar hang outs around the area packed with mostly young people enjoying the beautiful Sunday afternoon. We found a patio table in the shade, ordered up some BBQ and sat back to enjoy the ambiance and the live music...


The BBQ was a bit on the mediocre side; ribs ok, sausage was just a heated up brat, chicken was waaay to dry, pulled pork not too bad. If it is the best that Nashville can do then bless their hearts for trying :-) The music was generally quite good although a couple of female singers might want to seriously think about alternative careers. You do have to admire the tenacity and optimism of people who will sing in public despite their inability to carry a tune in a bucket. All in all a nice afternoon. Leaving Drifter's and after finding a Starbuck's for a couple of iced lattes, we took a drive into the downtown area around Broadway (Nashville's equivalent to Beale Street in Memphis) but didn't stop in; that's for tomorrow.

Monday morning we took the car into a local Nissan dealer and had the oil changed and the usual safety check done.  Once again we were told that our car is in great shape. After the car was done we decided to find The Fresh Market, an upscale grocery store we had found in Memphis. The only one we could locate in Nashville is in Brentwood, an affluent suburb city about a half hour drive south of Nashville. We found the market and bought some deli and salad fixings for lunch along with a generous sized container of pimento cheese. Now that is good stuff. Back at the KOA we ate some of the chicken salad and kale salad for lunch and still had a whack left over for tomorrow. Late in the afternoon we took the downtown shuttle to Broadway. This is a good deal.... they pick you up at the KOA, drop you off in the center of the Broadway strip (right out side Jimmy Buffet's Margaritaville) and pick you up later and take you back. $10 return... a bargain (we were told it is about a $40 taxi ride if we missed the last shuttle).

First thing was to walk down to the Country Music Hall of Fame to look through the excellent music part of the attached store. We bought about a half dozen new CDs to give us a bunch more new music to listen to in the car. After that we wandered along Broadway for a bit before deciding to try BB Kings Blues Club since they had had good wine and great music back in Memphis. Same thing here! We sat at the bar for about an hour and a half while listening to J Curly Speegle and a friend (not his band, just a friend)...


Leaving there about 6:30 PM we stopped in at a few more clubs where you just walk in, stand around and listen and leave (no hassles about having to order drinks etc), here's the band playing at Layla's...


...before stopping at Jack's BBQ for some dinner where we split a 3 meat meal of ribs, turkey and sausage (not bad but not great... better than Drifter's yesterday). After dinner we walked up to the top of the Broadway strip to Legend's Corner and went in there. It didn't take long for us to decide to grab a seat and stay awhile. The music was fantastic. We learned that the main musician was a guy named Chris Shrader but didn't get the name of the band he was playing with...


...  Chris is a great stage performer and puts on a great show. The woman playing the fiddle was outstanding. She clearly enjoyed what she was doing and the crowd loved her. We ended up watching until we had to leave to catch the 9:30 shuttle back to the KOA. The last song we saw was their version of Charlie Daniel's The Devil went down to Georgia. The fiddler jumped off the stage and climbed up onto the bar counter and put on one heck of a show...



A fun two nights in Nashville. Thank you!

Tuesday it was time to head on eastward. Nice easy drive along I-40 to just before Knoxville when we turned south towards Sweetwater, our planned stop, at the KOA there, for the night. Just outside of Nashville we stopped in at the Appalachian Center for Craft, a place we visited a few years ago..



... a beautiful location but unfortunately their cafe was closed so no lunch there this time. We wandered a bit through their wonderful craft galleries and gift store before heading on our way.


Later, in the town of Kingston we stopped to visit the historic Fort Southwest Point, a fort that was used from 1797 to 1811 and is now in the process of being fully reconstructed. While chatting with a fellow in the visitor building we learned that this whole area, specifically Oak Ridge, was once a top secret area, as it was established in 1942 as the production site for the Manhattan Project - development of the Atomic Bomb. Kris told the fellow that she has a friend whose father worked on the Manhattan Project at Cominco in Trail BC. Leaving the area, we drove a narrow back road over to Sweetwater. We had thought about taking that same back road most of the way from Nashville. Sort of glad we passed on that as it was very narrow. After getting set up at the KOA we took a drive around the area ending up in Athens, about 15 miles down the road, trying to find a grocery store. Our GPS indicated it knew of a Food Lion so we headed that way only to discover that it had been bought out by IGA a few years ago. Oh well, nice boneless pork ribs to be grilled for dinner. Very nice KOA and the pool, once opened, looked to be good with lots of shade. So many places have the pool out in the open hot sun.

Wednesday we continued through south east Tennessee into North Carolina. We have to say that whether you travel Tennessee by freeways, secondary highways or itty-bitty little country back roads, it is a beautiful state to drive through. Well, western North Carolina is not too shabby either. It was another easy short drive to Marble North Carolina for this day. We stopped in Murphy for lunch where on the main drag we had a few restaurants to choose from. We chose "The Finish Line" (clearly a reference to a nearby drag car track in Brasstown). BAD CHOICE. Service was incredibly slow and the whole place was like something out of Fawlty Towers.

While shopping for dinner in the local Ingles grocery store we came across another southern goodie that we will likely never taste...



... yes, the primary ingredient is "pig snout"! We opted for some more boneless pork ribs which for all of $3 made an excellent grilled dinner back at the KOA. Another very nice KOA by the way. Still too early for their pool to be open though :-(

Thursday was going to be a quick short drive over to Asheville, North Carolina, so we took our time getting ready to head out. Around noon we stopped in Bryson, North Carolina, for some lunch. Once again a number of restaurants, on the main drag, to choose from. This time we chose The Cork & Bean. This time... EXCELLENT CHOICE! We both had the soup/salad combo which was a shrimp corn chowder soup with a kale salad with strawberries, blueberries, nuts and feta cheese. YUMMMM.  At the visitor center in Bryson we learned that the southern end of the Blue Ridge Parkway was only about 10 miles away and the parkway passes fairly close to Asheville so we thought we should do that since we had done most of the northern part but none of the southern part yet. The parkway does provide some pretty scenery, but it slows you down a lot. Max speed is 45 mph.  We stopped at a few overlooks but the scenery is pretty well all the same...



.... a view across the valley to more of the same. The end result of going up the parkway was that it added about 2.5 hours to our trip. The southern part of the parkway is much windier that the north and is somewhat higher. At one place we passed a sign indicating that we were over 6,000 feet. The negative part is where we came off the parkway. That particular exit was a very steep decline with very sharp "S" curves all the way down. Kris had her eyes closed and Brian had his foot heavy on the brake pedal the whole way. Not an exit for anyone with a trailer longer than our wee one that's for sure!

We arrived in Asheville late afternoon and booked in at the Bear Creek Campground, on the west side of the city, for 3 nights. One of our reasons for returning to Asheville was the 12 Bones Smokehouse we enjoyed so much, but on this day they were closed by the time we got everything set up at the campground. For dinner, we decided to try one of the other Asheville BBQ joints and picked Louella's Bar-B-Que on the north side. Decent ribs and sausage with good sauces but, as we are finding east of Texas, the brisket was a bit too dry.

Friday we started with a drive down to the River Arts District, an old warehouse area that has been converted into numerous artist studios and workshops. Kris had read an article, in Watercolor Artist magazine, featuring Melanie Norris who, it turns out has a studio in the Wedge building in the district (a working brewery with studio spaces on the upper floors). So we sought her out and ended up having a very nice chat as she discussed her techniques etc.  For lunch, since 12 Bones is in the district... why not? It was a little after noon and the lineup was out the door but worth the wait. Excellent ribs, roast turkey, smoked potato salad (one of our favorites) and a very nice slice of Key Lime pie to finish it off. After lunch we went downtown and wandered around a bit looking in a few stores. Asheville reminds us so much of Portland Oregon. Later we found a Starbucks and were no sooner in the door than the skies opened up and a heavy downpour started. A bit of deja-vue all over again as this is what happened a few years ago when we were here. Lucky, it lasted only about a half hour, essentially the length of time it took to drink a latte and read a chapter or two in a book. For dinner we decided to hit Trader Joe's and just get a couple of their pre-made salads. Back at the campground we thought we might hit the pool but alas, still not open, but there's hope... the health inspector was there doing tests and she thought it might be open tomorrow.

Saturday we thought we'd drive up to Black Mountain, an artists enclave about 15 miles out of town. We'd need to take I-40 East part of the way but when we got to the on ramp it was blocked off and we could see that I-40 was totally at a standstill and backing up real quick. We went past the ramp and took the next left (who knew where it went) and happened to drive right into one of the largest farmer's markets we have ever seen. So we decided to have a look around. Lots of fresh veggies, fruit, baked goods, cheeses, meats, canned goods, pickled goods etc etc etc...




Nice. More pics of the farmer's market are on our Picasa album for this trip - week 6. By the time we got out of there it was past noon and the freeway was still totally blocked. Must have been some serious accident down the way!  Since we would have to go around, we decided to head south on I-26 to Arden and hit the other 12 Bones for lunch before heading up to Black Mountain. With the GPS it was easy to find and we had another terrific BBQ lunch, this time ribs, smoked chicken, smoked potato salad, corn pudding and smoked mashed sweet potato....




.... that will do us, food wise, for the day for sure. Off we went to Black Mountain. We parked at the visitor center and had a brief chat with the guy there who gave us a bit of back ground on the area but they were closing in a few minutes so had to cut that short. He said that since they were closing we could just leave our car in their parking lot rather than trying to find parking along the main drag. That was handy and it was only a 2 block walk to the main part of town. We went into a number of the small shops etc but like most tourists weren't buying much. Kris did pick up a nice knitting pattern and now knows what she will do with some of her yarn inventory when we get home. Stopped in the Dripolater coffee shop for an iced latte then headed back to Asheville where we stopped at Trader Joe's, for a couple more salads, on the way back to the trailer. Late afternoon but still well and truly warm enough to hit the pool. Yes it was open and the water was wonderful. Good end to this week...



Back to Week 5On to Week 7

Sunday, May 3, 2015

Week 5: Houston to Tuscumbia Alabama

Our general travel route for this week...



As much as we have enjoyed the (generally) fine warm/hot Houston weather and the times with our friends it is time to head on. There is lots to see yet. So, Sunday morning we headed north east hoping to bypass the major traffic areas of Houston but somehow our GPS decided we needed more of that and wanted to take us eastward almost parallel to I-10 through a maze of endless little malls etc etc toward I-45 before finally heading north. Sometimes you have to know better and to override the pigheadedness of the GPS!  Eventually we were headed in the right general direction. We finally managed to escape the freeway and hit secondary highways, much nicer. We stopped in Palestine for lunch but found that the town virtually locks up on Sundays. Here the GPS helped us out as we searched for a restaurant and decided on the Pitt Grill, a greasy spoon kind of joint. VERY GREASY!  However the food was not bad and we survived. After lunch we made our way about an hour north east to Rusk, our stop for the night at the KOA campground.

When checking in we asked if the pool was open. "Not yet; not until May 1, but if you don't mind the furniture not being set out and the water being very cold, you are welcome to give it a try"... well, we don't need to be told twice. It was a beautiful afternoon so after getting the wee trailer set up we headed over to the pool. By then, the park manager guy had decided he should be first in for the season so he was already in the pool, and complaining loudly about how cold it was. We thought he might be trying to dissuade us but no such luck. We just marched in and got wet. Many times we have been told "you Canadians will swim in anything!" and this was no exception. It was wonderful :-)

That night we awoke to a heavy downpour at about 3:00 AM (or maybe it was because we both had to go pee). It was raining so hard we opted to drive to the bath house which is attached to the main office building. The sky was alight with sheet lightening. When we got there the power went out so we had to prop the door open to allow the lightening to provide the illumination in the rest room. the KOA management couple and another couple of campers were in the office building and told us to come in. They asked "did you get woken by your phone weather alert as well?"... "no, we just had to go pee"... we all laughed about our bladders apparently being good (possible) tornado detectors. They had an app on their phone which provided a radar map of the weather system passing through the area and they were all awoken by an alert of possible tornado activity in the area. Apparently the possibility of a tornado was very real. We stayed in the main building (safest place around, they said) for about an hour and a half until the system passed by. No tornado this time. Back to bed but at around 6:30 AM we were awoken again, this time by heavy winds rocking the wee trailer but it died down quite quickly. So it looks like we were a bit on the lucky side. We were able to sleep a couple more hours.

Monday morning when we got up there was a fair amount of debris (branches etc) around the campground. Still no power by about 10:00 AM, so we packed up and hit the road. We headed north to Tyler to stop in at Stanley's Famous Pit Bar-B-Que where we had a fantastic 4 meat plate lunch (ribs, brisket, sausage, turkey) with a couple of sides...




...We ended up ordering more to take away for dinner. Some of the best BBQ we have ever had.  Our stop for the night was the KOA at Texarkana right on the Texas/Arkansas border. In fact State Street is the border. The two southbound lanes are in Texas and the two northbound lanes are in Arkansas. The lady at the KOA told us to not have an accident in the center turning lane because it can take a while to sort out who should respond (that sounded very silly!).

We decided the weather situation last night was justification for us to get a USA sim card and account for one of our iPhones so that we could get a weather alert app for safety sakes. When we got to Texarkana we went into a Walmart where we purchased an AT&T pay as you go (monthly) talk, text and data plan. Would you believe that my (Brian's) BRAND SPANKING NEW VISA CARD got rejected????  Walmart is one of the few places, in the USA, where we have seen the chip technology, so we used that and the card got accepted. Half an hour later I tried the car at a Shell station to get some gas.... REJECTED!!! So back at the KOA we use our spiffy new AT&T account on the iPhone to call VISA in Canada to find out what is going on. Sure enough, their automated security system put a block on the card. Buddy was not able to tell us why, although he said gas stations are very suspicious, but said he would unblock the card with no guarantees that it wouldn't happen again. I said that we use Kris's card all the time for gas and no issues. For dinner we ate more, but didn't finish, the BBQ we had bought earlier in the day at Stanley's. Kris then tried our new phone to call Marion in Vancouver. Works much better than the Tracfone for calls to Canada.

Tuesday we decided, since having never previously set foot in Arkansas, we would take back roads (secondary highways at best) north east to Hot Springs. Man, there are some boonies in this state. We were out in the middle of no-where for a good part of the day. That said, sometimes the back roads bring very pleasant surprises. We stopped in the little village of Washington in Hempstead county (try finding that on a map). The entire village (population about 200) is actually a state park named Historic Washington State Park and is one of America's premier historic villages.  We spent about 3 hours in a few of the buildings open to the public (different buildings are open on different days), had nice chats with the guides and had an excellent fried pork chop lunch in one of the historic taverns. Found out that the town was established on George Washington's birthday in 1824. Around the town there are numerous huge magnolia trees, one with the claim of being the oldest in the state, having been planted in 1839...




... apparently it used to also claim to be the largest but a few years back a heavy snowstorm took out a portion of the top of it. Very interesting place to visit.... and we would never have known about it if we hadn't driven down that one specific back country road. Nice.

We arrived late afternoon at Catherine's Landing at Hot Springs RV resort. After getting checked in and set up we headed into Hot Springs to find one of the 3 Bank of America locations identified by our GPS. Turns out that Arvest Bank bought out all three locations in the last year or so and our GPS doesn't know about it yet. So, we'll wait until we get to Memphis before getting some more cash. For dinner we checked out McClard's BBQ in Hot Springs. It is mentioned in our BBQ bible as a good place to try and it definitely did not disappoint. Very good ribs but sliced beef brisket was a bit dry, however their sauces were particularly good and their sides (potato salad and slaw) were also good. We ended up with enough for take away for lunch Wedneday...



On Wednesday we decided to just straight line it, east on I-30 and I-40 to Memphis Tennessee.  We stopped at a highway rest stop to finish off our left over BBQ.  Nice lunch. About 2:00 PM we arrived at the Tom Sawyer's Mississippi River RV park in West Memphis (still in Arkansas) where we checked in for 3 nights. This place is right on the banks of the Mississippi River and is on a flood plain. Here's what we see from where our trailer is...


.... and a couple of hundred yards "up the hill" behind us is a bath house with the record flood level marked (unbelievable - but true) ...

A couple of hours later we headed into downtown Memphis (across the river in Tennessee, about 15 minutes away) to check out famous Beale Street  (America's Most Iconic Street - USA Today)...


We found a parking meter just off Beale but parking is allowed only until 6:00 PM. It was only just after 4:00 so we parked there for a couple of hours as we wandered the few blocks of activity on Beale. Three or four blocks pedestrian only with mostly live music pouring out of every second door at least. Our first stop was Handy Park where we watch a free open air performance...


... we don't know who the performer was but he appeared to be well known to the crowd not to mention well appreciated. Excellent. We continued our wandering along Beale. All too soon it came time to move the car. We decided to stay downtown a while longer but parking was difficult to find as the Memphis Grizzlies (NBA) were in a home playoff game so parking was a bit of a valuable commodity. We lucked out and found a small lot just a block off Beale. It was a private company lot but they leased it out in the evening to Republic Parking who charged only $10 for the evening. Plus their guy was there all the time so it was like having your car personally looked after. Back on Beale, we decided to try BB King's Blues Club for some dinner and music. For a $3 cover we ended up sitting at a rail overlooking the band. We had the pleasure of watching Blind Mississippi Morris perform...



... dinner was a cheeseburger and some very spicy wings, along with a couple of glasses of pretty good wine, but we were really only there for the music.That part was outstanding. We bought one of his CDs. He finished his act a little after 8:00 so we decided to pack it in at that time as well.  The street scene outside was pretty cool...


A great introduction to Memphis.

Thursday we figured it was time to try Memphis BBQ since, after all, that was the real reason we came through Memphis. We pulled out our BBQ bible and decided to try the Cozy Corner BBQ for lunch, Now if you look at their website you can see that the place looks a little on the "divey side". That's ok... usually a sign of good food happening. But when we got there it was closed with a big sign pointing across the street to a very modern, non-descript looking little building. Hmmm, hope that doesn't mean a drop in BBQ quality. However we soon found out that they had to re-locate due to a fire in January but they were still serving up their same menu. The ribs and rib ends were absolutely fabulous. The beans and slaw were pretty good too. No disappointment there. We got there just before noon and were no sooner sitting at a table than the lineup grew very quickly. Clearly a very popular spot with locals.  After lunch we drove over to Sun Studio, the birth place of Rock and Roll. We got there just after 12:30 and were too late for that tour so had to wait until the 1:00 PM tour. Fantastic tour. Recommended. The guide, Jason Freeman, is also a recording musician. We bought his latest CD "Hex & Hell".  Sweet!  After the tour it was still early in the afternoon so we stopped at a Kroger's to pick up some groceries and the fixings to make ourselves some fruit smoothies back at the wee trailer. Delicious. Late afternoon we headed back to Beale Street for some more music. We found a spot to park in the same place as last night. Nice...We chose BB King's again as they had good seating at the bar (we were only there for the music and some wine on this night), where we saw Preston Shannon, aka "The King of Beale Street"....


....Another excellent evening of music.

Friday it was time to try another BBQ joint. This time we chose Corky's on the far east side of the city. Took a while to get there but, wow, was it worth the drive. Brian had a "small" (if there is such a thing in these parts) rack of dry rub ribs while Kris opted for a pulled pork salad....




... another most excellent meal. That will do us for the day!  After lunch we picked up some more smoothie fixings, back to the trailer and time to do some laundry and trailer vacuuming. Late afternoon we headed back to Beale Street for one last evening of music before we move on. We had heard about "Memphis in May" starting with a music festival this weekend but we were a tad unprepared for the crowds. Driving down to Beale Street, there were so many people out and about, it seemed like we were unlikely to find a parking spot anywhere close. $20 parking lots, that were not there the last two days, sprung up easily 15 or more blocks from where we wanted to go. We lucked out! The same parking place we used the last two nights had one spot left and we were right across the street from the top of Beale Street and BB Kings Blues Club. The street was packed with people so we opted to just head into BB's again as a line was starting to form. This time a $5 cover charge and we lucked out again snagging seats right in front of the stage.  We hung around for 2 bands, the first was Will Tucker...


... excellent, and the second was Ori Naftaly and man, was that band good...



... We went home almost deaf but what a great time. Thank you Memphis !!!!!

Saturday we packed up and headed southeast through the corner of Tennessee into Mississippi then Alabama where we stopped in Tuscumbia for the night at Heritage Acres RV Park.  As a side note, it would be interesting to know how Good Sam goes about rating restrooms. The ones at Tom Sawyer's in Memphis were rated 10; the ones at Heritage Acres were rated 9 but were, frankly, 10 times nicer than the ones at Tom Sawyer's and did not run out of hot water in the showers!

Anyway, the reason we stopped in this area was for Kris to visit Alabama Chanin, "a lifestyle company producing well designed and thoughtfully made goods for the person and home using 100% cotton jersey fabric in our design, sourced sustainably from seed to fabric". A true "Made in America" company committed to paying their workers a living wage.  To boot, they have a very nice restaurant. We arrived there at about 1:50 PM to find that the restaurant closes at 2:00 PM but they displayed the usual southern hospitality and told us that we were well in time to have a meal; we both had the quiche and it was very good. Kris had a good look around their store front and their fabric area (the factory part was not open to visitors) and ended up buying some beautiful fabric that will become shirts when we get home.

Later in the afternoon we drove around the area and went to downtown Florence, where one of the ladies at Alabama Chanin had recommended a few shops, one of them being Trowbridge's Ice Cream. While in a clothing store downtown we got chatting with a couple of the young staff members. They also highly recommended Trowbridge's with one young fellow telling us how his grand parents had their first date in a booth there. Maybe we sat in the same booth! Sweet place and very nice ice cream. Great end to the week.


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