Monday, September 25, 2017

Week 3: St Margaret's Hope to Lerwick Scotland


All photos for this trip can be found in our
2017 Scotland/Paris Photo Album
Look for the "Week 3" tag for photos added this week.


Our general travel route for this week...


Monday morning, after breakfast, we packed up everything into the car. Then having about an hour and a half before our ferry check-in, we went up the street to Robertson's coffee shop for a couple of lattes then stopped at a yarn and craft store that we had noticed on Sunday (but was closed at that time). Kris picked up a couple of Orkney related souvenirs and we were off to the ferry. We arrived back on the mainland at around 1:00pm and headed down the west coast towards Inverness. Another very pretty scenic drive.

We stopped for lunch in a little roadside diner (can't remember the name of the place) where we each had a bowl of their soup (lentil and ham for Kris; tomato and red pepper for Brian), then a quick stop for petrol before arriving at our hotel overlooking Loch Ness, the Loch Ness Clansman Hotel. Great view over the lake from our room, especially in the morning when the fog lifts to reveal a beautiful blue sky...


It turned out to be a great day for a drive through the Cairngorms National Park. We took one of the lesser traveled routes where the road is quite ziggy-zag with not a lot of opportunities to take pics of the very scenic landscape. Best thing to do is to go to the park's website and have a look at some of the pics there, OR click on the names of the 3 towns we mention below. They all have great pics etc.  All three are tourist destination type places that reminded us a lot of Banff, Alberta with lots of outdoor wear type of shops for the hiking and skiing folks.

The first place we stopped was Carrbridge where we discovered that this little town hosts the annual Porridge Making Championships where folks from across the globe come to compete for the coveted Golden Spurtle trophy...


...This year's championships are scheduled for Oct 7 so we just missed them. Here is a pretty neat brief description from their website...
Since 1996, the World Porridge Making Championship has taken place each year in the Scottish Highlands village of Carrbridge. The oaty cook-off draws competitors from across the globe to compete for the coveted Golden Spurtle trophy and title of “World Porridge Making Champion.” Not satisfied with just oats, water and salt? Don’t worry, competitors also battle it out for the speciality trophy in a section that celebrates the diversity of porridge with past winners including Sticky Toffee PorridgeFruity Date Porridge and Pinhead Risotto with Lemon and Thyme and Parmesan - the possibilities are endless!
The second place was Aviemore, where we stopped in at an information place to get verification that the less-traveled route we wanted to take would be ok. They verified it was.  We also noticed a sign, in a little strip mall, for a "Wool knit shop", which of course Kris was interested in seeing, but we couldn't find the shop. We asked in another shop and the "youngish" woman we asked did not know what we were talking about. She asked an "older" co-worker who laughed and said, in her heavy Scottish accent, which is hard to replicated in print... "that shop closed 30 years ago but they haven't gotten around to changing the sign"... we all had a good laugh.

The third place was Ballater, another small resort like area where we stopped for a wander around the main street and some lunch (tomato basil soup for both of us) at the Brown Sugar Cafe. The sweets looked really good and were apparently quite popular as many other customers indulged but we abstained. Just outside of Ballater, we drove past one of the high points in the Cairngorms where we saw numerous ski lifts. It looks like they can get a whack of snow up there.

We arrived in Aberdeen just as the end of work day rush hour traffic was starting so it was quite busy and our hotel, The Carmelite is well hidden right down town amid numerous small narrow streets but we did manage to make it.

The reward for our travels, in Scotland, so far was a lovely dinner with Ann and Helen, sisters who lived in Kitimat when I, Brian, was going to school there. We have not seen each other for nearly 50 years but did manage to reconnect a few years ago through the magic of modern technology, namely Facebook.  We spent a few hours reminiscing about Kitimat and reminding each other of different people we have managed to stay in touch with over the years as well as just getting caught up with what we all have been up to in those past 50 years. Wonderful evening.

We had hoped we could get some laundering done while at the hotel in Aberdeen but their prices are a tad outrageous so we decided to just buy a few more items to keep us going until we get to Lerwick on the weekend. So Wednesday ended up being a rather somewhat wet shopping day in central Aberdeen. We both picked up a few essentials and Kris added to her collection of knitting needles.

Thursday, we awoke to a rather wet, blustery Aberdeen. We decided it would be a good day to drive south to St Andrews, so after a coffee at a Caffe Nero and a stop at a Barclay's Bank we headed off and after a myriad of roundabouts we got onto A90, a four lane divided highway towards Dundee then on to St Andrews. After wandering around in the town we headed for the Old Golf Course clubhouse where we had a very nice lunch overlooking the first tee box for the "New" Course which opened not so recently back in the 1890's...


... the course being mostly a series of rolling hills it is hard to take a meaningful photo. For lunch, Kris had a ploughman's plate while Brian had a club sandwich (seemed appropriate). The club sandwich came held together with golf tees, pretty neat...


.... but on closer inspection...


.... sneaky buggers!

Mid afternoon it was time to head back to Aberdeen. By the time we got close to Aberdeen the rush hour traffic leaving Aberdeen started to get quite a bit heavier. At one point the two lanes going south were funnelled into a single lane with the result the traffic was backup for over 4 miles.  Glad to be going the other way! For dinner we walked up to Union Street and tried an Irish pub where we had one of the worst meals of our trip so far. Kris had some kind of mince pie with a rock hard crust and Brian tried the deep fried scampi which turned out to be mostly near raw tiny bits of prawn.

Friday morning, after packing up, we took a walk up to Union Street to Caffe Nero for a couple of lattes and their excellent scones with cream and strawberry jam. That was yummy! Then it was time to checkout of the hotel and head to the car rental return place. We covered a little more than 1,400 miles since we left Edinburgh. When we returned the car the agent told us to just leave everything in the car and one of their drivers would transfer the luggage to their airport shuttle van and let us know when it was time to go. A young guy came over and told us he was going to move the car near the door and get a van ready so we walked outside  to where there was a van. He opened the back door of the van, went and got our car and parked it beside the van, said something about using a different van then left. A while later he returned and asked us why our luggage was still in the car since, after all, he had opened the van door for us. Sheesh!! He reluctantly helped us move our luggage then told us to wait inside the building. The agent who first helped us came by and asked if everything was ok so Kris told her "that young man needs to work on his people skills!" and told her what had transpired. She just shook her head and said "he needs a good talking to!"

Anyway, the shuttle to the airport took about 20 minutes and we arrived a couple of hours early for our flight. As we sat waiting, a line of obvious Shetland Wool Week attendees started to form. We got in line. Five women joined right behind us. Turns out they are all from Vancouver BC and, of course, were heading to Wool Week. The only exception was a lone guy just in front of us who was going to Shetland to meet up with some mates to go bird watching.

Our flight departed Aberdeen at just after 1:00 pm and arrived in Sumburgh a little after 2:00 pm. We picked up our luggage, a new rental car and headed north the 25 miles to Lerwick where we checked into the Glen Orchy guest house. It was a beautiful, sunny afternoon, so we did a drive around Lerwick to start to familiarize ourselves with the town. We only had to play the "dumb tourist card" once when we drove down a one way street the wrong way :-(.  We did inadvertently discover the Jamieson and Smith wool place...


... where they had great displays of Shetland wool sweaters etc etc. Kris picked up a couple of small tote bags as souvenirs, such as this one...


...and to have something in which to carry her swag from the week. For dinner, we went into the Lerwick Hotel dining room where Brian had a bowl of chowder and a "starter plate" of mussels (huge plate; about 20 mussels) and Kris had a nice chicken breast wrapped in bacon along with some colcannon (mashed potatoes with kale). The food was good but the staff were, well shall we just say somewhat preoccupied with themselves.

Saturday was Day 1 of Wool Week for Kris. This first session was held on the island of Whalsay. We had gotten opinions of anywhere from 30 minutes to over an hour to drive to the ferry terminal at Laxo so we opted to leave early and give ourselves lots of time. We picked up a German woman, Sabine, at her B&B and the three of us headed off at 7:00 am with the ferry scheduled to depart at 8:30 am. That should give us lots of time and it did. Even with two missed turns and subsequent corrections we arrived at the ferry terminal at 7:50 am and were the first there by a long shot. Eventually more people showed and all were going to the same session Kris was going to.  The small ferry, about the size of the Mill Bay ferry on Vancouver Island, soon arrived...


...unloaded, reloaded and we were off in no time at all. The colours in the water churned by the ferry were quite pretty...

The ride was a quick 30 minutes then we made our way to the Heritage Centre in the town of Symbister where Kris's session took place. I, Brian, then spent the next 4 hours or so driving the roads of the small island stopping at the north end to visit the Whalsay Golf Club ...


...I took a walk around part of the courses stopping to watch whether or not a flock of sheep on one fairway were in danger of being bonked by a ball...


...but apparently they fear not the golf ball! The scenery on the course is stunning with quite dramatic shoreline all around it...

... and, man, was the wind ever howling. I stopped at the 3rd green for a quick video...


Leaving the golf course I stopped at the wee Livister Cafe. I think I was the first customer of the day as several young girls and women were most anxious to serve me. They were trying to figure out where I might be from and I got guesses of Australia, South Africa and America but no Canada. They were quite happy when I showed them on a map where I was from and were happy to have a group photo, and yes, the sweets were delicious...


Later, after Kris's session was over, we along with a number of other knitters returned to the cafe for a late lunch (the knitters were too busy to worry about lunch during their session) where the cafe was now quite a happening little place. We also visited the charity shop, which is quite well known for its knitted items.  Kris bought a beautiful pair of fair isle hand knitted mittens, patterns on all sides for 20 quid.  They are stunning examples of the fine hand knitting produced in the area...


Then it was back to the ferry. By that time the winds had picked up a bit such that the Laxo ferry terminal closed down and our ferry was diverted to the much more sheltered Vidlin terminal. Back in Lerwick we dropped the car off at our guest house then wandered down into town to the Lounge Bar, a small pub, where we chatted with one fellow for a couple of hours but honestly, with his heavy accent, I don't think we understood any more than about 20 percent of what he said. It was fun though.



Back to Week 2On to Week 4

Monday, September 18, 2017

Week 2b: Fort William to St Margaret's Hope (The Orkneys)


All photos for this trip can be found in our
2017 Scotland/Paris Photo Album
Look for the "Week 2" tag for photos added this week.


Our general travel route to get to the Orkneys...


Friday morning we were up and away from the hotel early as we had to be at the ferry terminal for check-in prior to 6:00am.  We arrived at the CalMac terminal just before 6:00 and were very glad we had made a reservation as this sailing turned out to be be totally full.  We managed to grab a front row lounge seat but that didn't turn out to be all that good. The voyage was rocking and rolling, up and down and side to side, and we were overlooking the front of the car deck. One car right below us had it's security alarm go off every time the boat listed from one side or the other. That sound got a bit tiresome so we ended up moving. Moving around on the boat was like being a drunken sailor! A lot of off balance moves so hold on!

Anyway, we arrived in Ullapool and found the visitor's information centre where a fellow assured us that the road up the west coast is perfectly drivable although some of it is single track.   The drive turned out to be easy, albeit somewhat slow. We had a little over six hours to get to Gills Bay to catch the evening ferry to the Orkney mainland and the estimated drive time was a little over 4 hours with about 30-40 miles of single track highway.  We were a bit lucky that there was not that much traffic on the single track parts so not as many stop and wait occurrences, for on comers to pass by, as there could have been. With a stop for lunch, one museum stop and a petrol stop we arrived at the Pentland ferry terminal, at Gills Bay, with a little under an hour to spare.

We also found out that this route is part of the North Coast 500, Scotland's version of the USA's Route 66.  The scenery along the coast is first class although being quite cloudy and foggy, there were not many photo ops on this day...


We stopped at a little craft area, just outside of Durness, for a look around and some coffee and light lunch then in Bettyhill we stopped at the Strathnaver Museum. The museum is in an old church in the centre of a cemetery, with some interesting carved stones...



The museum tells many stories of the vicious "Highland Clearances" when many, many crofters (farmers) were evicted from generations old homes by land owners. The crofters were left with virtually nothing and many did not survive the desperate journey to North America, with some going through the Hudson's Bay to settle in Manitoba, Canada in search of a better life.

While in the museum we noticed an artifact that looked familiar. Kris has a little metal gadget that we always wondered what it was. Well, it turns out, what Kris has, is a stand for a goffering iron. The stand is the gadget on the right in the second pic below...



... a little mystery solved. That was pretty cool!

After that it was a stop in John O Groats for some petrol then off to the ferry terminal. It was fun watching the ferry loading. This ferry loads and unloads from one end only. So they maneuver smaller cars around the outside in a U-shaped pattern. The cars in the U-shape are packed in so close together that passengers have to get out before the car is put in it's designated spot and a car in the right lane has to stop and let the driver of a car in the left lane out before pulling ahead. They then load some of the centre with small cars that can join the U-shaped queue on departure then they back in all the other larger vehicles so they can drive straight off when unloading. In this pic you can see part of the bottom of the "u" as well as some cars pointed in and some cars pointed out (specifically the light grey and maroon cars back to back to each other). It does all seem to work rather well though...


Since the crossing is expected to be a bit rough they ask all drivers to leave their vehicles unlocked so the alarms don't go off. Clearly numerous people are not jiggy with the idea and lock their vehicle. As a result we were treated to a chorus of alarms going off all the way across.

We arrived in St Margaret's Hope just before dark and found our way to our hotel, the Murray Arms Hotel where we had a nice dinner (Haddock and salad for Kris; crab hot pot for Brian) and spent a bit of time in the bar where we chatted with one of several young Irish men who are here working on a new hospital over in Kirkwall.

After a very blustery night, the rain stopped and the clouds cleared nicely Saturday morning. Here's what a nice blue Orkney sky looks like ...


After the usual good breakfast at the hotel we drove up the street to Robertson's coffee shop and information centre, on Church Road, where we had a couple of lattes and got some excellent tourist info. Then we headed off to Kirkwall to see the St Magnus Cathedral (although today it is technically not a cathedral; it is a parish church of the Presbyterian Church of Scotland)...




Leaving Kirkwall, we drove through the centre of the island to see the Standing Stones of Stenness...


Gives you an idea of how big these stones are!
 ...the Ring of Brodgar...



... and, of course, Skara Brae...




... all three of them are so interesting.

By then it was late afternoon. We drove to the nearby town of Dounby, visited a couple of artisan shops but their one restaurant was closed already for the day. So we drove back to Kirkwall, wondered around the nice central shopping area (Broad Street), stopped for lattes and scones then headed back to St Margaret's Hope for some dinner (Scallops for Kris; Haddock for Brian), some bar drinks and to call it a day. A very good day actually!

Sunday was a very lazy day with most, things being closed. After breakfast we drove around to the north part of the main island, past Kirkwall to the Broch of Gurness,  another iron age village...



... quite stunning actually!

Then we continued around the island to the Brough of Birsay, but the walk across the rocks (which you can do at low tide) was too much for our sore knees so we had to give that one a miss.

Leaving the Birsay area, we came to the village of Twatt. We had hoped to get a pic of the "famous and apparently one of the most photographed directional place signs in Scotland" but we could not find it. Maybe someone stole it. Instead we settled for a picture outside the church...


Quite a little industry has formed around the fame of the name. In Kirkwall, and other places, we came across stores that sold a whole whack of "twatt" paraphernalia such as t-shirts, place mats, coasters, and pretty well anything else you could think of putting a name on :-)

We then stopped in the small seaside town of Stromness for a break and some lunch. Really good soup, lattes and cake do the trick. Then it was back to St Margaret's Hope for some late afternoon rest before dinner and packing for our morning ferry trip tomorrow morning.

Overall, a great few days on the Orkneys, although as with the Outer Hebrides, we just stayed on the main island, or mainland as they are referred to. End of the first week on the road in Scotland and it has been very enjoyable.



Back to Week 2aOn to Week 3

Saturday, September 16, 2017

Week 2a: Fort William to St Margaret's Hope Scotland (The Outer Hebrides)


All photos for this trip can be found in our
2017 Scotland/Paris Photo Album
Look for the "Week 2" tag for photos added this week.


Monday morning, the Mansefield House breakfast was excellent; yogurt for both of us, scrambled eggs with smoked salmon for Kris and poached eggs with smoked ham and a side of toast with PB&J for Brian.  Our planned journey for the day...



Leaving the house we did a quick drive into Fort William before heading north. Not much to see with the low cloud cover (no sign of Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in Scotland) so off we went. Not too far north of Fort William we spotted a sign "Clan Cameron Museum"...


We were already past the turn off when we noticed it so had to drive several miles before finding a place to turn around. Then it was five miles on a single track road to get to the museum... well worth the effort and Brian got to practice on the single track road having to take advantage of pull overs several times to let on comers get past us. This stop was of interest to Kris because she is a MacPhail who are a sept of the Clan Cameron. The Cameron's were a lead clan in the Clan Chattan confederacy whereby smaller clans banded together for mutual protection. The Clan Chattan sigil is the Scottish Wildcat and their motto is "Touch not the cat, but glove" which may go a long way to explain why Kris is such a cat person :-) :-)

It was a grey, but not too wet day for our drive north on highway A82 then west on A87 towards the Isle of Skye. The colours in the mountains are simply gorgeous but, unfortunately, very few places to stop to take pics at the appropriate times. We did get a chance to stop near Loch Garry and also Loch Loyne for a couple of decent pics although they don't really do the colours justice...




... and also at Eileen Donan Castle, apparently one of the most photographed castles in Scotland and you can see why...



Not long after crossing over the bridge to the Isle of Skye we finally had a chance to stop and take some scenery pics....


... and one pic of a sign indicating possible sheep on the highway...


... and this poor sign had been the object of numerous shootings. It contained 12 bullet holes but not a single one hit the sheep. We speculated on the reason...

  • poor shots
  • were just trying to scare the sheep
  • were actually good shots trying to hit the sign without hitting the sheep

In any case, we saw numerous other such signs and nary a one had a single bullet hole.

We stopped, for a break, in the very cute little seaside town of Portree. Great view over the harbour...


Early evening we arrived at the Cowshed, our stop for the night in the small village of Uig where we would catch the ferry to Tarbert (Outer Hebrides) Tuesday morning. The Cowshed it actually a hostel but they have a number of self-contained "pods" which is what we had reserved...


It was a bit of a climb to get to the pod but the view was worth it...



For dinner we went to the Uig Hotel where we had really good salmon (Kris) and seafood linguini (Brian) and shared a pretty good creme caramel for dessert, and ok, wine and beer. While at dinner we had a chance to see a ferry coming into the Uig ferry terminal...



Then it was back to the pod where, as the sun dipped towards the horizon,  the view was pretty spectacular...




Tuesday morning we caught the CalMac ferry from Uig to Tarbert. Cost was 42.50 GBP which is around $75 CDN. The ferry duration is 1 hour and 50 minutes so I guess it is somewhat comparable to a Nanaimo to Vancouver ferry; 90 minutes for $85 CDN for car and 2 people. Quite a bit smaller boat but had a decent breakfast and comfortable ride although it did sway a bit. Our route from Tarbert to our hotel, the Doune Braes, near Carloway was...


The distance of about 43 miles took a little over an hour.  While checking in, the hostess suggested contacting Bill Lawson at the Seallam! Visitor Centre in Northton at the south end of the island. She called him for us and Kris chatted with him. It turns out he is away tomorrow but if we could drive down this afternoon.... so we did, back past Tarbert to the south end. Very interesting place and very knowledgable fellow who provided Kris info about her family history.  Then it was drive back up to the hotel, except this time mostly in the rain, for some dinner and some beer and wine in the lounge. Time to take it easy. Here are a few pics of the ferry crossing and the landscape on the island...

Leaving the dock at Uig
On the ferry to Tarbert
On the ferry to Tarbert
Island scenery
Island scenery
.... and of course there were many, many sheep, some on the road...



Wednesday started as a day of "firsts". Brian had Black Pudding for breakfast. Not bad actually but would take a bit of getting used to. After breakfast we drove over to see the Black House Village at Garenin. This is a restored village giving a feeling what life was like living in this type of house. It is also in a beautiful location overlooking the ocean...


... and the detail of the thatched roof is pretty cool...


Leaving there we headed to the nearby Carloway Harris Tweed Mill...


... for a tour of the facilities. Very interesting and an even more interesting fact is that the mill can make the wool but it cannot weave the fabric. Harris Tweed fabric must be woven by individual weavers in their homes on this island. That is the only way it can be true "hand woven Harris Tweed". After the tour we drove to the studio of a local weaver, Norman MacKenzie...


who gave us a demonstration and talk about the Harris Tweed brand. He weaves on a Hattersley  loom, a fairly antique piece of equipment.  There are only about 70 of these looms left and any repair parts have to be scavenged from existing looms. Before we left his studio, Kris ordered up seven yards of a beautiful blue tweed herringbone, to be shipped home. It will become a jacket later.

To end the morning we went to the Callanish Standing Stones.  This is truly an amazing place...



... We had a very nice tomato and red pepper soup along with a couple of lattes and apple pie for lunch at the Callanish visitor centre before driving south to the island of Great Bernera where we visited the Bosta Iron Age House. Another interesting place but too dark to take pics inside...


..it too is situated in a beautiful spot with a white sandy beach...


... and if you look really closely, just to the right of the rock island in the water you might get a glimpse of Newfoundland :-)

Thursday was our last day for exploring the Outer Hebrides (Isles of Lewis and Harris to be exact). After breakfast we checked out of our hotel and, after a quick stop at the Dun Carloway Broch,...


...we  headed to the north end of the island where after a brief drive around the small town of Port Ness we went over to the Butt of Lewis lighthouse where the dramatic rocky coast pretty well rivals a good part of the Oregon coast. MAN, was it windy there!!! It was hard to stand still let alone hold a camera still...



Leaving there we stopped in a cute little museum/cafe where a couple of lattes, sponge cake and oat cakes went down real well. When we entered the cafe we noticed a number of tables all set out for what might be a birthday party. Then while we were eating a large group of very senior citizens came in and sat at the tables. At one point, a gentleman stood up and said grace, in Gaelic, and the place went dead still while he did so. Then they all tucked into the waiting food and a good time was had by all. Meanwhile, the rest of the cafe also filled to capacity such that there was a waiting list. Very nice little place.

Heading south again we eventually turned east to Stornoway, our stay for the night. We checked into the Crown Hotel near the ferry terminal (our ferry tomorrow morning leaves at 7:00 AM) then wandered around the town centre for a bit. Brian picked up a new Harris Tweed cap...


... and it was a good thing too because it started to rain rather heavily and our umbrellas were back in the car.  After stopping for a couple of rather mediocre lattes and even more mediocre cake we went back to the hotel for a rest and dry off. Early evening the rain stopped so we drove out to the tip of the  Eye Peninsula to see the lighthouse at Tiumpan Head. Not as dramatic of coastline as up at the Butt of Lewis, but still just as windy...



On the way back into Stornoway, we stopped at the ruins of the Eye Church, all that remains of a church dedicated to St Columba. The site is in a state of ongoing restoration and is very interesting....


We got back to the hotel just in time for our dinner reservations. Kris ordered a ham terrine and Brian ordered beef pie along with a glass of wine and beer. We had waited a bit for our order when the waitress came over and apologized profusely that chef had told her to tell us that they were out of the terrine. Instead Kris could have whatever she wanted on the menu and there would be no charge. So Kris also had a beef pie and they were both delicious.  Afterwards we retired to their cozy little lounge for another wine and beer and to also have a wee sip of their "malt of the month".

Overall, a great few days on the Outer Hebrides. The roads we covered...





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